Rock Wars at RRG

[granite_grrl]

I've been getting it in my head to try to onsigt this when I head out there in a couple of weeks. The bottom is a finger crack, then above a little mid way anchor you get into a hand crack.

A few questions. Does the bottom take nuts well, or should I be looking at taking more than a few finger sized cams. Is the top a pure hand crack (no constrictions), and if so, whose hand? Many guys find a #2 Camalot perfect hands, this is a little big for me.

I should have tried this a couple of years ago, but after my performance on Autumn I was a little scared to get on it. I had problems on Autumn because my jamming skills wern't up to par for the "hand" crack (was big hands for me, which I'm still not great at).

Whoo! I'm getting excited!

[chossmonkey]

If you get beta is it still an onsight?

You can see it all from the ground as I recall. Go to the bottom look at it, throw your rack together, sew it up, and send the rig!!!! You are climbing well right now go give it all you have. If you come up short so be it. Either way, the less beta you have the more you will likely walk away with.

[granite_grrl]

Its a steap hike up to Long Wall, and I don't want to carry a triple rack if I dont have to.

I'm also terrified of getting up there, finding it's a large hand crack (for me) and not being able to jam worth a crap.

But I suposse you're right. Make my firends carry the triple rack if I'm putting the climb up for them (obviously its for me, not for them, but Jackie at least wants to get on it). If the top crack is a bad size for me either risk a fall or back down.

I've gotten a lot more nervous about onsighting since my accident.

[Adam]

don't you guys live together?

[chossmonkey]

Yeah, but this way I can at least fool myself into thinking she is listening.

[Adam]

good answer. hope it works

[Fred]

i think the first pitch of Rock Wars is 5.9 but pretty steady grade the whole way. The second pitch goes at 5.10a. I had a video that featured both Autumn and RW and RW seemed much more difficult in my opinion. That said, you can never really tell from a video.

[granite_grrl]

Nevermind. I sent it. The top climbed waayyyyy different from what I thought it would. I will also add that I thought that Autumn was harder with it's "hand" crack (note: I climbed Autumn a couple of years ago, so maybe its not as hard as I remember....I was just a lot weaker ).

[Fred]

good job. How was it? Looks stellar.

[granite_grrl]

Lovely line. I think there are a number of other routes at the Red that are similar, but I don't know if any are as long and as sustained in nature as Rock Wars (for the grade).

I like the cracks down there, I can't wait till I get down there again.

[Fred]

recent comment on http://www.climbing.com where a European climber who was down there for Petzel Rocktrip said it was the best climbing he had ever done in the world.

I've been to a lot of places and it's still number one on my list.