free soloing

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Re: free soloing

Postby Adam » Wed Jul 21, 2010 8:13 am

john wrote:SO if someone fell with a rope you help and without a rope you don't because you don't agree with the way they hurt themselves?

I sometimes drive by car accidents if I think they are speeding and using their blinkers when the crash happened. :wink:


IMHO, if they were using gear they were taking precautions to prevent cratering (i'm not going to entertain arguments about incompetent gear/rope work here). If you deck while soloing it is likely to be very messy and you brought it upon yourself. Would I *really* do nothing? I have a feeling my conscience would get the better of me, but thinking about it theoretically, yeah, you fuc|(ed yourself - you deal with it.
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Re: free soloing

Postby Matt Peck » Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:39 pm

Remind me not to expect the mercy of others next time I make a mistake in welsford.
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Re: free soloing

Postby Adam » Thu Aug 12, 2010 11:58 am

Matt Peck wrote:Remind me not to expect the mercy of others next time I make a mistake in welsford.


what mistake did you make last time?
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Re: free soloing

Postby martha » Thu Aug 12, 2010 12:02 pm

Adam wrote:
Matt Peck wrote:Remind me not to expect the mercy of others next time I make a mistake in welsford.


what mistake did you make last time?




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Re: free soloing

Postby Matt Peck » Sat Aug 21, 2010 5:20 am

Not quite what I was getting at, but while we're at it, I walked myself out of there on two broken ankles, so I guess the statement holds.
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Re: free soloing

Postby Adam » Mon Aug 23, 2010 6:50 am

Matt Peck wrote:Not quite what I was getting at


spit it out then Woody!
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Re: free soloing

Postby *Chris* » Mon Aug 23, 2010 1:53 pm

Over the weekend the reining World Cup champion, Chloé Graftiaux, was apparently killed in the mountains, as a result of loose rock giving way. A very accomplished physical climber, feeling safe soloing because the terrain was well below her grade.

Speed may well be worth the risk in the mountains, but it's a roll of the dice.
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Re: free soloing

Postby *Chris* » Tue Sep 13, 2011 10:28 pm

Another sad story. Uncontrollable hazard has apparently killed another strong climber soloing well below his ability. Strength, skill, and experience factored little into the equation it seems.
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Re: free soloing

Postby theriault » Wed Sep 14, 2011 7:29 am

SH ITTY!
very sorry to hear !
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Re: free soloing

Postby Andrew » Wed Sep 14, 2011 11:50 am

I would like to share a related story...

I was climbing last year at Sunnyside and setting up a top-rope anchor on a route while with someone very new to climbing. While setting up the anchor, someone soloed up the very route we were setting an anchor on. We were the only 3 people at the cliff and it was likely a weekday when usually no one would be around. I didn't know this other climber and still don't know who it was.

Do I really need to point out how inappropriate it was for this event to take place, esp. in front of a new climber?

You get questions (hopefully) after an event such as "So, soloing is the ultimate goal of a rock climber? Practice on ropes and then when you feel ready, you go for a solo attempt?". If you are not so lucky, they don't ask and decide their goal MUST be to solo a route.

To the person who did this, great for you to sail up a route w/o protection, chalk, shoes, etc.
Not so great of an example to a new climber.

This isn't the first time someone has climbed solo right in front of others and usually new climbers.

Personally, I think it's great to be able to solo, but feel it's unfair to others in many ways.

I'm not saying that if you solo, you are bad. I'm not saying that soloing isn't amazing and that it doesn't feel great and free. Just that there are no second chances and it likely wouldn't be your ability, but rather uncontrollable circumstances that would result in a likely fatal fall such as a broken hold.

Rock on everyone.
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Re: free soloing

Postby theriault » Wed Sep 14, 2011 1:13 pm

Andrew wrote: While setting up the anchor, someone soloed up the very route we were setting an anchor on. We were the only 3 people at the cliff and it was likely a weekday when usually no one would be around. .


Did this person even know you where there, as you where on top of the cliff??? soloing is a personal thing, and I agree should not be done in front of new climbers or any climbers... BUT if this person tought he was alone at the crag well....
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Re: free soloing

Postby Andrew » Wed Sep 14, 2011 1:42 pm

Marty,

Yes. We were at the base of the route and they walked up the trail and we said hello and so on. My partner and I went up to set the anchor and then a few minute later this story above begins. They knew we were going to set a top rope anchor as we told them that and offered a belay if they wanted to climb it with us.

I'm not making a federal case of this, simply wanted to add this story to the thread.

Andrew

theriault wrote:
Andrew wrote: While setting up the anchor, someone soloed up the very route we were setting an anchor on. We were the only 3 people at the cliff and it was likely a weekday when usually no one would be around. .


Did this person even know you where there, as you where on top of the cliff??? soloing is a personal thing, and I agree should not be done in front of new climbers or any climbers... BUT if this person tought he was alone at the crag well....
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Re: free soloing

Postby GKelly » Wed Sep 14, 2011 6:03 pm

Holy crow. You've got to be bad friggin ass to solo that route. I've looked down it from the top and it's scary. I think I've got a sweet picture I'll try to find.
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Re: free soloing

Postby GKelly » Thu Sep 15, 2011 7:00 am

CLARIFICATION!
My previous comment was in reference to Derectissima on Yamnuska.
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Re: free soloing

Postby Dom » Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:35 am

theriault wrote:
Andrew wrote: While setting up the anchor, someone soloed up the very route we were setting an anchor on. We were the only 3 people at the cliff and it was likely a weekday when usually no one would be around. .


Did this person even know you where there, as you where on top of the cliff??? soloing is a personal thing, and I agree should not be done in front of new climbers or any climbers... BUT if this person tought he was alone at the crag well....



Soloing might be a personal thing but if you do it in the Welsford area you are an egocentric A-hole regardless if there are people there or not. The Access is delicate in Welsford and soloing leads to death so don't be egocentric and jeopardize the access for everybody because you have small crotch syndrome. If you must solo go to Bald hill or Hampton or something but DON'T go in the Welsford area.
This message is aimed at anyone who thinks soloing is fine in the Welsford area.
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Re: free soloing

Postby PeterA » Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:47 am

Dom wrote:
theriault wrote:
Andrew wrote: While setting up the anchor, someone soloed up the very route we were setting an anchor on. We were the only 3 people at the cliff and it was likely a weekday when usually no one would be around. .


Did this person even know you where there, as you where on top of the cliff??? soloing is a personal thing, and I agree should not be done in front of new climbers or any climbers... BUT if this person tought he was alone at the crag well....



Soloing might be a personal thing but if you do it in the Welsford area you are an egocentric A-hole regardless if there are people there or not. The Access is delicate in Welsford and soloing leads to death so don't be egocentric and jeopardize the access for everybody because you have small crotch syndrome. If you must solo go to Bald hill or Hampton or something but DON'T go in the Welsford area.
This message is aimed at anyone who thinks soloing is fine in the Welsford area.


I've soloed in Welsford. Chalk me up as an egocentric A-hole :)

-PJ
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Re: free soloing

Postby theriault » Thu Sep 15, 2011 11:16 am

PeterA wrote:I've soloed in Welsford. Chalk me up as an egocentric A-hole :)

-PJ


Diddo!
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Re: free soloing

Postby GKelly » Thu Sep 15, 2011 6:33 pm

Dominick Caron! You should be ashamed of your self! (Insert picture of mischevious grin here) Is resorting to name calling really necessary? Perhaps we should purchase a WSS - Welsford soloists' shovel - wich we could leave at the sign in box. This way we could have it in the case we find a dead soloist and need to quickly hide the remains.

Is that illigal?
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Re: free soloing

Postby Matt Peck » Mon Sep 26, 2011 9:05 pm

Consider me chalked.
There's some opposed and opposite ideas here that's for sure. It's too bad that in this case it's not making anything stronger.
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Re: free soloing

Postby Leehammer » Fri Oct 07, 2011 9:20 pm

I would solo more if had the balls and if my wife wouldn't kill me if she found out ...
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Re: free soloing

Postby Adam » Sat Oct 08, 2011 5:09 pm

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Re: free soloing

Postby GKelly » Wed Oct 12, 2011 11:14 am

I found that picture of a friend on Directissima (spelling questionable). Can't imagine soloing that route.
Hmm.. It is too large for CEC. Can be found here:

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid= ... =3&theater

Let me know if this does not work.
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Re: free soloing

Postby Greg » Fri Oct 14, 2011 5:03 pm

Free soloing is a personal choice and I have no problem with anyone free soloing as long as it is done in such a way that is does not infringe on the safety or freedom of others.
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