Eagle Bluff - Clifton

[Shawn B]

Just a heads up for anyone heading down to Clifton...I guess Eagle Bluff is now posted "no trespassing". The owner Don passed away a few weeks ago. A bit more info here...https://www.facebook.com/BluffFest

[Stacey]

OMGoodness...is this the kookie Don that I've heard many stories from Marty & Dom about?

[Dom]

Yes R.I.P. Don - I will always remember the first time I shot a shotgun (and almost shot his truck)

[Shawn B]

A bit of 3rd hand info from a couple we talked to at Big Chick on Sat....the land is still in Don's family and they have posted the trespassing signs to absolve themselves of liability. They are not keeping people from climbing or camping. Again...not sure how reliable this info is and whether it is accurate or not (my disclaimer incase you get charged with trespassing). The property is definitely posted no trespassing. I called Alpenglow and they had no info on access.

[Shawn B]

And oh yeah...if you are climbing at Big Chick there are a couple of routes not in the book that are worth doing. Same start as Black Beauty but continue past the second bolt up the right trending ramp, turn the bulge at the 3rd? bolt and head straight up to obvious left facing flakes (a bit wonky), then follow the face/slab above about 10 feet right of Black Beauty. 5.8ish and 170 feet. Another about 30 feet right of the death ramp...an obvious clean streak with shiny newer bolts, slabby at first then up through steeper flakes up top. Super route...3 thumbs. 120 feet/13 or 14 bolts 5.9ish. Most routes are getting furry especially down low in the canopy of the trees.

[theriault]

RIP Donny.... We will never forget the good times at the clifton campground!

[Dom]

And oh yeah...if you are climbing at Big Chick there are a couple of routes not in the book that are worth doing. Same start as Black Beauty but continue past the second bolt up the right trending ramp, turn the bulge at the 3rd? bolt and head straight up to obvious left facing flakes (a bit wonky), then follow the face/slab above about 10 feet right of Black Beauty. 5.8ish and 170 feet. Another about 30 feet right of the death ramp...an obvious clean streak with shiny newer bolts, slabby at first then up through steeper flakes up top. Super route...3 thumbs. 120 feet/13 or 14 bolts 5.9ish. Most routes are getting furry especially down low in the canopy of the trees.

Are these on the left Shawn? I remember climbing very long routes on the left.

[Shawn B]

Are these on the left Shawn? I remember climbing very long routes on the left.

Yes Dom...they are on what MP refers to as the left end and left face. The trail deposits you at Natural Mystic. They are to the left. Buteo, Beauty and ?? are all very nice long moderates...150-170ish feet. Cliff gets a bit shorter as you continue left. We also did another not in the book in between a frayed knot and variety pack which was ok...5.8ish as well...and it was 85 or so feet. The bottom was good but top was meh...no thumbs...but worth doing once.

[Shawn B]

The "somewhat official" but "unofficial" word...

Hello,
Sorry for the delay in getting info out to everyone.
The word of mouth, which seems very reliable, is that climbing at Eagles is fine. The land has been posted to protect against any lawsuits, not to stop people from climbing.
I have no information if this applies to camping as well.
I have not heard back from Jon Tierney about scheduling a meeting to discuss the situation and determine how best we can organize to maintain access. Word on the street is also that the land will be going up for sale, but not immediately.
Sorry for the delay in getting out this info. I will follow up as soon as I know more.