Climbing in Ontario

[tintanium]

I'm going to be in Ontario in July and free for one week, possibly two. Any ideas on the must-climbs? I've got Bon Echo and Lions Head marked - any other suggestions?

[Fred]

Mount Baldy is quite nice. If you are near Ottawa I would recommend taking the drive back towards Montreal to climb at Val-David. The climbing in Luskville/Gatineau is soso. Check out this sticky thread

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1643

[tintanium]

Thanks Fred. I've been on ontarioclimbing.com too - a friendly bunch down that way.

[Fred]

sorry... I think it's called Old Baldy.

[chossmonkey]

sorry... I think it's called Old Baldy.

correct


Mount Nemo is also good.





What kind of routes are you looking for? Where will you be based?

[Fred]

If you plan on going to Nemo, read my report on "not" going to Nemo North.

Chossmonkey can give you better beta on exact route recommendations.

[granite_grrl]

If you plan on going to Nemo, read my report on "not" going to Nemo North.

Nemo can be *okay*, but I think there are certainly better crags. Frankly, it all depends on how much time you have, style of climbing you're interested in and grade range within that style.

Nemo in July can be getting a little warm and extra slick though.

[tintanium]

Thanks for the advice guys.

Here's my plan so far. I'm hoping to do some easy/ier multipitch trad at Bon Echo, some sport on the escarpment around Milton and up at Lions Head - maybe stop at Val David and then Kamouraska on the way back. I may have another week to play with, and who knows - maybe a few days at Welsford will be in order. I've - gasp - never been yet. I'm starting to feel excited about it all.

[granite_grrl]

If you have the entire week to dedicate to climbing I'd probably stay out of the Milton area (unless you are relying on partners who can only climb there).

Bon Echo is worth a weekend, but the ACC boat service only runs on the weekend. Contact the custodian (http://climbers.org/bonecho/custodian) on the weekend you're planning on going and they'll pick you up at the public boat launch. It's $25/day for non ACC members ($12.50 for members. The price is per DAY, not night due to the boat usage). More info: http://climbers.org/bon-echo-and-our-cabin

There isn't much camping in the Beaver Valley unfortunately, but I would look at Old Baldy and Metcalfe for sport climbing. I also have had much time to check it out, but a bunch more lines have been bolted at Devil's Glen in the same general area.

On the Bruce there is Lion's Head (which I'm not in love with because of the rapping in and hanging belays), White Bluff (steep and fun, the rock is way more solid than it looks, but some of the bolts are pretty depressing...all the same I really like climbing there), TV Tower (very little sport) and Cape Croker (very little sport). There is also bouldering up at Halfway Log Dump. I haven't climb there, but people I know have really enjoyed it.

Are you heading out here by yourself? Partners on the weekend will be easy to find, but it'll be best to line up partners during for during the week. There's not a usual climber's camping area and it will probably be hit or miss when it comes to picking up partners at the crag.

BTW - I go by "becs" on Ontario Climbing, in case you haven't figured it out yet.

[tintanium]

Thanks granite__grrl. I'd really like to check out Bon Echo - it looks and sounds like an amazing spot. And it looks like Old Baldy is the place for sport - what are you doing mid-week July 17-23?

[granite_grrl]

what are you doing mid-week July 17-23?

Hard to say. Lost my job recently....if you luck I'll still be looking. Personally though, I hope I'll be working.

[Murph]

How far west are you traveling? If you are near Sault Ste Marie check out
http://www.northofsuperiorclimbing.com/