Lead Ice Fall on Dracula video

[Joe]

http://www.vimeo.com/20549603

Quite an impressive video!

[*Chris*]

That's jaw dropping. Smart folks wear helmets... even when being filmed.

[Fred]

Makes me want to start ice climbing again.

On a lighter note, great cinematography.

[j.root]

http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2011/03/ ... mbing.html


Came across this today after watching that video. As a new ice climber it made me realize my lack of knowledge about safe leading techniques, for instance I did not know about clipping into a tool to prevent a fall. It is so easy to get so swept up in new, exciting sports and want to start leading and pushing it early on, thinking that I am more experienced than I am. A good eye opener for sure and that article provided some good advice on how to climb ice more safely.


Craziest part was that his harness was not doubled back look at the video at around 11 minutes in. Extremely lucky it did not end up worse.

[tintanium]

http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2011/03/ ... mbing.html

[Joe]

Back in the 1980s when I started to lead ice, it was common to pound an ice tool into the ice and hang from it while you cranked the old Salewa screws in with your other ice tool. Now days such practice is made fun of, since we're so good that we don't even need leashes on our tools. But hanging from a tool is a technique that all ice climbers should have experience with, to be used when things go bad. As Will Gadd implies, it's much better to look bad hanging from your tools than to look bad in a crumpled heap at the base of the climb!

[Greg]

Another strange thing in this video is that the guy apparently was holding onto a cordalette that must have been tied to an anchor. If you look closely just as he begins to fall it goes flying out of his left hand.

The fact that they lowered him immediately after he fell is also totally mind boggling.

[theriault]

I am glad this video got posted... People need to understand the moral behind this video. DO NOT start leading ice like its a well bolted 5.6 sport climb. I have my personal 2 cents about it... If you don't know or have questions/doubts about ANY of these topics its probably a sing you are Not ready to lead Ice... spend more time TR and ask questions (I am more than happy to help/answer question to any motivated Ice Climbers!! and I am pretty sure any other Ice Guru's in our small community would do the same).

-Tool placements: Know the feel/sound of a good solid placement
-Form: Know the fundamentals of the tripod
-Screws: When, where, how to used them (left and right hand placements) and the effects of a fall on one.
-V Threads(abalakov): know how to make a GOOD one and be comfortable to use/thrust them
-Science of the Ice: Probably the most important part of Lead Ice Climbing, know the medium you are climbing, this is not rock and can change in a mater of a few minutes. Know how to read the core of ice coming out of a screw to know its a solid placement, the effects of temperature changes, if and how the ice is bounded to the rock behind, the life cycle of the formation of ice, the difference between good and flowers ice... this can go on its a BIG subject....

-Foot Work: Read the ice like its rock, most of the time kicking is not even needed.
-Rest: Know how to find rests and rebuild yourself(very imp on WI4 and above)
-Gear: Have the good gear for what you are climbing...gloves can change everything on lead!. Tools, no one would bring a single 120cm mountaineering axe for a WI4+ pillar... so why do I see a lot of people with overly aggressive dry tooling machines on WI 3's... have the good equipment and get comfortable with it (millage on YOUR crampons/tools/screws will help you on the long run just like you old trad rack!). Explore the Idea of using teaders on your tools and I highly recommend using umbelicorde if multipitching or on an Alpine route.

-Gear Maintenance: All that nice sharp expensive gear needs a lot of loving, keep you blades, front points and screws sharp! rust is your enemy!

-Basic Climbing skills: Have your flowers dialled!, rope work, knots, rescue systems, anchors, belaying (a leader, a second, multiple seconds and the multi-pitches if it applies) and the list goes on.

-Buddy checks: How many of you actually do them.... we used to skip em and then Dom got Lynn Hill's story.... ask him about it, we now do our checks every time!

-Environment: Know your surroundings, good belay spots, stay away from potential ice fall, escape routes, anchors and (yes they do exist, ask Michel and Doug about Fundy Gully) avalanche danger....etc...

-Balls: You need em! no question there your climbing oversize popsicles! you have to make quick on the fly decisions about protecting or running out... be comfortable with this!

-Attitude: the last in my long boring list LOL but certainly not the least.... Have a positive attitude and respect your peers, it will go a long way!

I am in no way pointing fingers at any one in this tread, its my 2 cents but I know a good part of it is good. I certainly don't have Joe or Steve's (just to name a few) experience but I've been climbing Ice for around 8 years and this is the stuff that came to my mind this Friday morning there's a lot more to be said on the subject. Its very touchy but the point is to not do what these guy's in the video did.

Climb safe!

PS Sorry for my bad english! LOL

[theriault]

in the above tread, the word flowers was spelled " fiddly foo! " before the CEC changed it LOL sorry Fred!

[theriault]

LOL Is it possible to swear on these forums! the word started with an "S" and rymed with "hit" LOL

[Dom]

LOL Is it possible to swear on these forums! the word started with an "S" and rymed with "hit" LOL

Sit?

good points above Marty.

[Stacey]

Marty - thank you for taking the time to post this - it's very well worded and thought out.
Your experience speaks through it - 8 years is a lot of ice

Nope - can't swear on CEC....each special word has it's 'good' word replacement (I think there are different ones)?

[Fred]

I like Gad's advice and I think it applies to sport, trad, and ice. Don't risk hurting yourself on a fall. Learn to dog on your gear, finish the climb safely, and return for a red-point on a better day.