anchor suggestions?

For all the motormouths who just need to spray.

Moderators: chossmonkey, Dom, granite_grrl

anchor suggestions?

Postby Jordyyy » Fri Mar 05, 2010 10:07 pm

i use the sliding x usually. anyone have any tips/suggestions for anything better or that they prefer?
Jordyyy
 
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Mar 05, 2010 10:04 pm

Re: anchor suggestions?

Postby martha » Sat Mar 06, 2010 8:29 am

Do a quick search on the forum, lots of anchor talk in previous threads. :)
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....

Re: anchor suggestions?

Postby *Chris* » Sat Mar 06, 2010 3:49 pm

Not sure if you're interested but the UNB rock n ice club will be holding an anchoring course sometime in early April. Details will be posted here when they are finalized. Cheers.
User avatar
*Chris*
 
Posts: 848
Joined: Wed Apr 19, 2006 2:32 pm
Location: Fredericton

Re: anchor suggestions?

Postby Eager » Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:35 pm

While timely and efficient the "magic x" anchor will extend if one of the anchors breaks, and can shock load the remaining anchor. It serves a purpose as a multi directional self minding anchor and may be suitable if there are no questions with anchor strength (bolts, large trees, bombproof placements). However, if building an anchor of two or three marginal gear placements or ice screws it is much more prudent to equalize the anchor by tieing it off with a figure 8 , so that if any piece breaks there is no extension minimizing shock load to the remaining anchors.

Freedom of the Hills is a good resource for anchors as well as the Petzl website, but proper training and experience is usually the best teacher.
User avatar
Eager
 
Posts: 190
Joined: Sun Apr 17, 2005 9:53 pm


Return to General

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 95 guests

cron