Ontario Redux

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Ontario Redux

Postby Danno » Fri Sep 07, 2007 9:56 am

In a locked thread, Fred wrote:

we made a big mistake by thinking we could start at one end and walk the base of the cliff to scout the routes we wanted to climb. In doing this we headed for Mt Nemo North. Big mistake! This end of the cliff sees little traffic. Most of the routes at this end are on chossy broken limestone with sport routes few in between. Avoid going to Nemo North. Instead, take the main trail that goes to the Main Lookout. There is an easy descent just left of the main lookout. Here you will find much better walls and quality routes.


If there's one crag I really know, it's Nemo. Fred's right that you can't walk from Nemo South to Nemo North along the base; you need to walk along the Bruce trail at the top of the crag. However, Fred is wrong about Nemo North: some of the crags best sport routes are there: the Graduate, High Society, Trajectissima--these are fantastic, classic Escarpment lines. Many of the routes are mixed, but that's Escarpment style (easy, well protected cruising to harder faces). There are also some really stellar crack problems and mega-classic trad lines: Camel, Cat's Tail, etc.

Beware that the guide book is worse for Nemo than it is for Lion's Head (and that's saying something).

Other great Nemo sport routes:

Train in Vain (mixed)
Fear and Loathing (mixed)
Suplex (mixed)
Seventh Origin of Alfred (mixed)
Scarface
Mean Streaks
Tendenitis
I Owe A Lot of Money to a Man Named Guido (mixed)
Big O Tree
Lost In the Forest
A nameless line just to the south of Female Belay Slave (great warm-up before the Graduate)
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Re: Ontario Redux

Postby granite_grrl » Fri Sep 07, 2007 10:12 am

Danno wrote:Other great Nemo sport routes:

Train in Vain (mixed)
Fear and Loathing (mixed)
Suplex (mixed)
Seventh Origin of Alfred (mixed)
Scarface
Mean Streaks
Tendenitis
I Owe A Lot of Money to a Man Named Guido (mixed)
Big O Tree
Lost In the Forest
A nameless line just to the south of Female Belay Slave (great warm-up before the Graduate)


Its funny 'cause you've listed most of the sport routes that even exist at Nemo, lol.

"Big O Tree
Lost In the Forest"

I think these two routes kinda suck, haven't tried them for years. But it depends on your taste I guess.

Mean Streaks is a great line (haven't tried it since last year) and I'm currently working on Forever Young (which I enjoy, but perhaps only because I'm close to climbing it clean).

Nemo north is where I have always gone for my trad climbs. Harlequin is a great climb, along with Butterfingers and Double Lead.

But all this talk brings up the fact that Nemo is still a freakn' choss pile, a house of cards some might say. A number of large blocks have been pulled off the cliff this year, from very popular climbs. Including the large block from Harlequin which unfortunally found another climber's head (he was wearing a helmet, but due to the size of the block it still did a good bit of damage).

House of cards!!!!
Ledges!!!!
Overclimbed greasy sport route!!!!
OMG!!!!

Yeah, I still climb there but its a choss pile
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Re: Ontario Redux

Postby martha » Fri Sep 07, 2007 10:20 am

granite_grrl wrote:Yeah, I still climb there but its a choss pile


I'll agree to that. Fred and I couldn't believe what a pile it was when we got there. ..but when it is what you have... I guess you have to make the best of it right?
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Re: Ontario Redux

Postby chossmonkey » Fri Sep 07, 2007 12:49 pm

Geologically unstable choss.


Lost in the Forest wouldn't make my list of fun routes. The upper section while fun isn't worth the entry moves.
If women ruled the world there would be no wars, just be a bunch of jealous countries not talking to each other.
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Re: Ontario Redux

Postby Danno » Fri Sep 07, 2007 3:17 pm

I will defend Nemo to the death! Yes, most people climb there because of it's close to Toronto and no, it's probably not worth a road trip (unless you're one of the unfortunates in Michigan or Rochester), but it has its charms! It's also an important part of Southern Ontario climbing history.

I may be the only who digs Lost In The Forest, but I love the boulder problem at the second bolt that makes it a serious sandbag.

Outside of a the only sport 5.10a (Live Bait) and the only 5.9 (Wide Load), both of which are crap, I've never had a problem with greasy holds. Choss gives the routes an alpine feel.

Forever Young is definitely a cool route, but probably my least favourite on the Iguana Wall. Suplex is just ridiculously good fun, even if holds come off every now and then. Seriously, how can you complain about loose rock? It means the routes are always changing and you never get bored.
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Re: Ontario Redux

Postby martha » Fri Sep 07, 2007 3:48 pm

Danno... you need some granite man... seriously... hahaha....

Ontario slimestone.... yick!
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

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Re: Ontario Redux

Postby granite_grrl » Mon Sep 10, 2007 8:18 am

Hey Danno, it would be cool to see you around Nemo someday. We do our best to go away a lot of weekends, but keep an eye out for me and my husband Nathan.

Hope you enjoy you time out east.....on some solid rock! :lol:
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