Something we all should read.

[GKelly]

http://www.climbing.com/print/techtips/ ... hors_away/

So I have thought for the last 7 or 8 years that a daisy chain was a type of personal anchoring device. I've never used one because I think they are bulky and unnecessary and without it I can carry an extra cam to accomodate stitching the hell out of every route I climb.
Anyway, it's a good read, check it out.


Greg

[*Chris*]

I'll echo that. Tie into the anchor with the rope whenever possible... and at all times during a multipitch. I use the Sterling Chain Reactor (mentioned in the article) as a convenient connection at stations where I know I'll be setting up a rap. Once difficult to find... I happened to notice the other day that the Radical Edge has begun to stock them. FYI.

[ColinJ]

I've been using the Metolius Personal Anchor System this summer I like the adjustability of it but it is bulky. I find it often gets confused as a daisy chain but is constructed much different and is full strength on all loops.

Colin

[Dom]

I lived in France in '09, and although the French have a bad record when it comes to safety (belaying with a figure 8, smoking while belaying, etc.) most French climbers would never anchor themselves on something static. So they all used this system which I have been using for the last 2 years (2 metres of dynamic 8mm double rope). It cost 5$ to make and is fully dynamic! If you want to extend it, use a regular sling. At least you'll have a dynamic component in your system.

[Shawn B]

I like it. No girth hitch req'd, dynamic, fully adjustable to any length and you have cord if you need it to back up tat. Dom do you "tie in" as per a normal rope? Do you leave it there tied for the day (or permanently) when you climb? If so what do you do with it to keep it out of the way and do you find it gets in the way of gear loops or anything?

Never did like the PAS nor daisy's. Always have tied in with the rope at the belay but this is a nice option when that isn't or when doing multi pitch raps.

[Stacey]

I lived in France in '09, and although the French have a bad record when it comes to safety (belaying with a figure 8, [b]smoking while belaying, etc[/b].) ...

Hey ADAM...I didn't know you were from France hehe

[Dom]

I like it. No girth hitch req'd, dynamic, fully adjustable to any length and you have cord if you need it to back up tat. Dom do you "tie in" as per a normal rope? Do you leave it there tied for the day (or permanently) when you climb? If so what do you do with it to keep it out of the way and do you find it gets in the way of gear loops or anything?

Never did like the PAS nor daisy's. Always have tied in with the rope at the belay but this is a nice option when that isn't or when doing multi pitch raps.

Hey Shawn, Yes I ''tie in'' with an 8 and very rarely take it off so it's basically permanent. I just attach it to one of the rear gear loops and tuck it under my gear so it's not really in the way.

BTW if anyone wants to try this, there is a dynamic half rope sold by the metre at MEC http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Climbing/RopesCordage/HalfTwinRopes/PRD~5021-444/edelrid-merlin-8.0mm-dry-rope.jsp

[Stan]

...most French climbers would never anchor themselves on something static. So they all used this system which I have been using for the last 2 years (2 metres of dynamic 8mm double rope). ...

We sometimes used a similar setup in Russia - with two long ends having figure 8 with a biner. Quite handy for aiding/caving (one end - anchor biner, another - jumar).

[theriault]

I use the same set-up as Dom, but I have a longer rope that I put 2 butterfly knots in... gives me more options...