Omega Link Cams

[mick]

Anyone used the Omega Link cams?

Reviews are largely positive, with the exception that some of the 1st batch (circa 2006) seem to have had some issues with trigger pins not affecting holding power. I also read that some people have had hairlines appear in a cam lobe or two after a year or so. Again, this may have been an early batch.

Opinions?

cheers
mick

[Burley]

I have the larger of the two sizes.

It is a bit heavy.
I don't like the end of the stem where your thumb goes. I would like something similar to BD's design.
Also, I do not like the length of the stem. It is actually sometimes difficult to get my thumb on when I'm trying to place it. However, it has to be this long because of its massive range. Those will small hands might hate this cam.
This cam is good for a panic placement you can't see and aren't sure if the crack takes a #2 or a #0.75 (i.e. pumped out, numb fingered layback situation), but then you can't see what part of the lobes are in contact... catch 22.
Good for a panic placement.
Good for aid.
Good for a first multidirectional placement off the ground.
Good backing up another palcement.
Good for an anchor placement. If you have to pick a cam to save for a natural anchor when you don't know what gear is needed... this is a good one to keep on the harness.

I wouldn't climb with a rack of these, but I like having the option of putting this one my harness. I use it on almost every trade route. If I have it on my harness it is either going to be for the panic layback, first placement, or for the mystery anchor I have to build. If I don't have it on my harness on P1 I always get the second to drag it up in case I use a #1 or #2 in the anchor.

Put it this way... I hate it, but I love it. Kinda like how teenage boys feel about their parents... They were a pain in the arse when you don't need them around, but they always help you out when you get in a bad spot and we are all probably still alive because of it.

Get one.... I have the yellow/gold. Go to their website and you can see what the issue was. Just have a look at the cam and make sure every joint has the end capped... if not send er back.

[granite_grrl]

Good for a panic placement.
Good for aid.
Good for a first multidirectional placement off the ground.
Good backing up another palcement.
Good for an anchor placement. If you have to pick a cam to save for a natural anchor when you don't know what gear is needed... this is a good one to keep on the harness.

I'm not trying to bash you, I'm just trying to understand why people like these cams. Good for panic peice, yeah I see that. I don't know if I fully understand why they're good for aid, but I've heard this before so we'll blame my inexperiuance with aid climbing.

But why is this cam better than another as your first peice off the ground? I'm not seeing any advantage except getting a chance to drop the boat anchor.

Why is this cam better for a backup peice instead of another peice of gear? If climbing parallel cracks, shouldn't you have a bunch of cams in the same size? If not on parallel cracks you should have another peice that will fit the crack.

Honestly, I'd be interested in carrying one of these around and seeing what I really think of them. But I'm not curious enough that I'm going to go out and spend the money on one.

[Matt Peck]

ok, let's see if I can take a crack at this.
Good first piece, because it is less suseptable to uncamming from walking than others. It has to go a looong way to uncam. This makes it better for a first piece as there is typically a lot of pivoting involved. Also, you can "unload the boat anchor" as you say.

Not quite sure why Burley specifically listed "good backup placement" as a pro, but I like it as a failsafe on the rack. Trade routes like to eat #2's and this cam covers at least three sizes in that vicinity, so you can have a single "backup" cam on your rack instead of three.

I agree with Burley on the thumb being awkward, but if there had been a loop, I think the stem of this cam would have been retardedly long. They used the stud to save length IMO.

It has it's quirks, but I think the LC's do a good job for a piece with so many moving parts.

[Burley]

Bang on Peck.

[chossmonkey]

Why would you want to dump it as your first piece? If it is that heavy and you don't think you would use it otherwise why not leave it on the ground?


It seems like they would be great for cracks that open up inside. There is nothing worse than squeezing a cam into a crack and then having it open up completely, or to the point of being unusable once inside the crack. I don't know how they would compare to the Metoilius max cams, but the Trango version is worthless if it walks at all. The cams will be loaded incorrectly.

[Burley]

Dude was wondering if he should buy one. Buy one.... or don't. I like it. End of conversation.

[Matt Peck]

Ditto the Burley. The dude asked for opinions, Choss. There they are. Cheers.

[chossmonkey]

They seem overly specialized and only a gearwhore can justify one.

How's that for an opinion?

[Rosie]

I'm pretty sure they can also be justified by climbing girlfriends who want to buy a super cool present for their climber boyfriend...

[granite_grrl]

I'm pretty sure they can also be justified by climbing girlfriends who want to buy a super cool present for their climber boyfriend...

The gift for the gear whore that has everything?

Nah, my list is still 10miles long, and a link cam is pretty far down it. I blame ice climbing.

[chossmonkey]

I'm pretty sure they can also be justified by climbing girlfriends who want to buy a super cool present for their climber boyfriend...

Perhaps, though anything flashy will work.

[chossmonkey]

I'm pretty sure they can also be justified by climbing girlfriends who want to buy a super cool present for their climber boyfriend...

The gift for the gear whore that has everything?

Nah, my list is still 10miles long, and a link cam is pretty far down it. I blame ice climbing.

You have a girlfriend?!?!?!?!!!!

[*Chris*]

FYI... OP has issued another notice for users to inspect their cams for faulty manufacturing. Just thought I'd mention it in the event that this has an influence on your decision to purchase. The link is: http://www.omegapac.com/op_climbing_notices.html

[Fred]

is Omega still using prison inmates to manufacture their products?

[new to NB]

Companies that Use Prison Labor

In the USA

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[Makwizard]

I am currently conducting research at Duke University to analyze and redesign cam lobes. The end goal is to improve a cam's ability to hold in soft rock and flaring cracks. I have just begun my research but will be continually posting updates of my findings on my cam research page.

Thanks.