by Shawn B » Mon May 30, 2005 8:57 am
Just to clarify a bit. I believe your question probably stems from Brent's comments about Return to Forever in Acadia. Occasionally, a climber will be faced with a move they don't feel comfortable doing unprotected...beit runout, ledge fall potential, etc. However, if they place a piece of gear to protect that move it will cause greater grief higher up on the climb in the form of rope drag. Thus, you place the piece, clip the rope obviously and make the move with the security of a piece right in front of you. Now that the move is over and either climbing gets easier or you place another piece of gear that won't cause you grief later, you reach back and take that piece of gear out.