Self Belay

[Fred]

Two things:

1. I'm looking for recommendations for a self belay device other than a Petzl Shunt. It works pretty good but I'm sure there's something better. Plus I don't trust it for that since that's not what it was designed for.

2. I was wondering if anyone had a set of Jumars I could borrow for two weeks when I go to France. Just in case I can't follow Zig up Verdon.

[Jody]

Hey Fred,
I use a petzl mini traxion for TR soloing ice. The teeth give you a bit of confidence when the ropes are icy, vrs a gri-gri or shunt. Usually tie an 8 on a bight, clip that to an anchor. Climb on one strand, then rap the other. Never have to go un-secure that way.

-J out

[granite_grrl]

It depends on the type of climbing you plan on doing while self belaying. I personally haven't explored the world of self belay devices, but my boyfriend swears by his silent partner for lead belaying. It has the advatages of being able to catch you during an inverted fall. Other deiveces such as the soloist require you to wear a chest harness.

For top rope self belay I have had the ushba recomended to me. I'm tempted to order it myself.

Take a look at the other belay devices listed, the ones mentioned above are the only ones that I have heard first hand accounts of. Good luck!

Rebecca

[Mountain_Marc]

I use the Silent Partner when solo aiding. The thing is amazing. A little pricey but definitely worth the investment.

You can always rig a grigri to work for soloing but I find it's a pain.

Here is some info if you want to modify a Gri-gri for soloing.

http://www.ulrichprinz.de/alpin/equipment/selfmade/

[john]

slient partner

I have jumars you can borrow

[PaulB]

Go light, simple & cheap... use a clove hitch. Pretty popular with the big wall aid-soloing crowd, but maybe not so convenient for free climbing since the rope won't feed automatically.

[Ulysse]

the clove hitch dosent work well at all unless you are climbing at half of your ability- the gri gri works but not very well you need one hand to pull the rope up true the device-can get hard when you are in a crux of a climb-
the petzl mini traxion work well but tends to lock in the open position when you climb overhangs one way to prevent this is to take a file and file a notch to prevent unwanted oppenings
the best device to climb with a fixed overhead line is the ushba it is around 90$ has no teet and works well or I use the MK2 ropeman but it's not intended for that purpose but also works
For lead the silent partner is the only way to go a modified grigri works
but the silent partner drum feed pretty good and shines when you are short fixing pitches

[mitchleblanc]

"Don’t feel bad for losin’. I was wrestlin' wolves back when you were at your mother’s teat."

[The Teth]

I used the Petzl Microcender Ascender for top-rope when I first went to California and did not have a climbing partner. Works better if the rope is weighted, otherwise you have to free a hand to pull it up the rope. It worked ok, but I did not push my limits on it. It is not made for soloing, and there is probably something better.

I have also soloed with a prussic. I don’t recommend it.

The Teth

[climberwannabe]

Ok, ok, I've read the statements about 'climbing is inherintly dangerous..' etc etc. But wouldnt self belaying and solo climbing be really dangerous? Especially with ice climbing, I mean, you could be hanging off of the side of a cliff and get brained by ice and hang there for days. Maybe there is something I am not understanding, I would think that the buddy system is rather important regarding climbing... or am I just a big baby?!!

I hope I didnt just introduce myself to an ethical situation here....

Steve

[Ropeguy]

I use the Silent Partner when solo aiding. The thing is amazing. A little pricey but definitely worth the investment.

You can always rig a grigri to work for soloing but I find it's a pain.

Here is some info if you want to modify a Gri-gri for soloing.

http://www.ulrichprinz.de/alpin/equipment/selfmade/
_________________
Turn down the suck, turn up the good!

On the link MM provided above check out the information on the link"good page"lots on information on different solo devices.

[The Teth]

Steve:

Climbing by yourself is definitely more dangerous, as illustrated by that guy who had to cut his arm off a while back, but then he was there for days and no one knew where to look for him. The danger of soloing can be reduced greatly by telling someone where you are going. It also does not hurt to bring a cell phone, fore like incase your hand gets stuck under a rock or something.

While we are on this subject, does anyone have some links to good “how to” articles on solo aiding. I would like to know more about this, as I often feel like spending time on a cliff (you know, confronting my fear of heights and all of that) but usually have difficult finding a belay partner.

The Teth

[The Mitt]

Just to let you guys know the USHBA is discontinued I just got the soloist.

Mitt