Yarding out slack/ fall potential

[Murph]

So imagine this situation, you are high above you last piece/ bolt and you are within and extended arms reach of the next placement/ bolt. If you yard out a bunch of slack and fall while attempting to clip, there is potential to deck.

So, if you: 1) Take a double length runner, clip your rope and then clip your next piece/bolt. 2) Yard out a bunch of slack and clip the draw you originally intended. 3) Retrieve the runner. If you fall with a bunch of slack out, you will fall on the piece/ bolt above you rather than below you.

Has anyone done this before?

[chossmonkey]

Yes, but it is of limited use as you need to get the long draw put up first. If you can reach the clip you are probably better off just clipping the short draw rather than wasting energy with tomfoolery. That said, if the rope is really hard to pull up and it isn't very hard to get the long draw on it can be worth while.

Often while climbing on gear I will sling crappy placements long so if they rip when I am close to them they won't add to the fall. If you clip a piece above your knot and it rips it is basically the same as blowing a clip. With a piece slung long if it holds it holds, if it rips your fall isn't any longer than if you hadn't clipped anything at all.


Double ropes are a better solution for both situations.