Harness - Importance of being double backed - READ ME

[Burley]

Just a quick safety note:

There was an instance a few weeks back where someone was top rope climbing and the belayer forgot to double back their harness. During the lowering of the climber the belayer's harness came completely undone at the waist. only point of connection were the leg loops.

Please remember to double back after a pee or poo. The climber and belayer should always check that the other is tied in properly, double backed (actually look to verify), locked up, and that rope and belay device are properly setup.

Oh yes... and shoes tied... always tie your shoes!

[Fred]

did this happen in NB?

[martha]

Yikes... yes, no kidding people! Always do the 'check' before leaving the ground... Both legs and waist double backed and snug, Knot tied correctly and through the right points, belay device loaded properly and locked. Don't just glance either, grab the gear if you have to... and that is just such a fun way to get to know your belayer.

When you are putting your harness on or getting ready to belay, don't get distracted... you can take that lesson from Lynn Hill who sat down to tie her shoes mid way through tying her knot (because her belayer tossed her shoes over to her) and then fell 80ft to the deck upon weighting the anchor to lower as she forgot to complete the knot.

[Burley]

Yes it happened here. The important thing is that everyone gets reminded to double check and knows what can happen when you're not doubled back (people can die).

I'll note that it wasn't me. Also, those involved were sober and not what I would consider beginners.

[martha]

Also, those involved were sober and not what I would consider beginners.

It rarely is beginners with these types of incidents... it is us old experienced climbers that get a bit complacent with the routine. Things like rapping off the end of a rope (eh Fred?) and not locking biners or double backing can happen when we get too comfortable. We must stay on our toes and treat each climbing day with as much fear and respect as though it were our first.

[Burley]

Just a note:

The climber never fell... just the weight of lowering the climber was enough to undo the harness... totally.