Rope - I'm in the market for a new one

[Andrew]

I'm looking for advice and direction on rope buying.

My current rope is a 70m 10mm Mammut Galaxy (light blue). I got it at MEC for ~200$ in 2001 or 2002.

I figure it's time to retire it and purchase a new one. I would like to have 10.0mm 60 or 70m (if i have the option that would be awesome). I would prefer it to be:

Brand: Mammut
Blue
Duodess
Triosafe (if possible, but no big deal)
Fully Dry (core + sheith treated)

I lead 35-50% of my routes currently and the rest is top roping. I don't take lead falls very often (so far never outdoors).

I would prefer to buy the Mammut but I can't seem to be sure what colour I will get when I order.

Can anyone recommend another place aside from MEC.ca that I can get a rope in Canada?

Any hints or comment would be great. My spending range is 150-250 roughly. If its the rope I want, i don't mind paying a little extra.

Andrew

[Fred]

http://www.mountainmagic.com

[martha]

Holy! I guess it is time to get a new rope! hehehe!

I would say get a 10.5 mm rope as it will last longer for you. Especially where you use your rope for about 50% top roping.

I wouldn't bother with a 70m for around here. you can get off everything with a 60m and it sucks to have to carry the extra weight!

The color of the rope changes year over year so you may not get a blue one.

Also, take a read at some of the other threads on this forum about ropes.... cause there has been some discussion about mammut ropes and how long they last. Ours have been burning through in record time, and we lead probably 95% of the time.

Cheers!

[The Mitt]

Your rope is only five years old. I would still use it for cleaning or top roping and even for light leading. If your not doing anything with it I will take off of your hands next time your in Hali. I am always looking for a long rope to clean with.

Mitt

[martha]

Mittens....

I've seen this rope and it is as fuzzy as a towel. I'd use it for cleaning but that is all.

5 years is old. Check out the Mammut suggested retiring guidelines for a rope. Andrew has put a lot of miles on it.

The guide says to replace it after 5 years if it has been used 1 time per month over that span.

Fred and I replace ours every 12 months. sometimes sooner cause the darn things wear out!


Page 26 of the ropeguide has the chart I am referring to.

[The Mitt]

Yeah I have read the manufacturer guidelines. Generally I get about 5-10 years out of a rope they just get demoted. My first rope is still in use as a cleaning/jug line at 9 years. It will go on my next big trip as a jug line. My current lead line is only 2 months old. I replace my lead lines about every 2-3 years. I would love to have a good 70m line for jugging, but if you say its crap then nevermind

Mittens

[szymiec]

Is that next big trip to the Bugs? Bugs doesn't really rhyme with jugs the way you think it would. Sure it would still be fun though.

[The Mitt]

Wish it were the bugs but it looks like Newfoundland this summer. Maybe bugs next.

Mitt

[Shawn B]

Andrew...the Mammut Flash 10.5 is an excellent rope. Much nicer hand than the Gallaxy 10mm. I think it is my 3rd one of these that I just broke out. A bit fat but fine for most at Welsford. Should easily last you 2-3 years. Beal Flyer 10.2 is also a very nice rope...but not avail in duodess...just a permanent middle mark by the manufacturer. Fred, if you didn't have to 3:1 Martha up all those 5.6's and above, your ropes might last longer.

[granite_grrl]

I agree with the 10.5mm line. Looking at the mec website i would get either the Mammut Flash or the Beal TopGun. I've used both, they're both great....though i think that I almost lean more toward the beal (didn't get as fat after a couple years of use).

Between both my husband and I we have a bunch of 10.5s in various degees of usage (still in packaging, lead ropes, TR rope and dry treated for ice), and two 10mm. The 10mm just don't last as long and I don't know if the slight weight savings is worth it unless you're doing really long pitches.

Hmm, MEC has the Beal Top Gun 10.5mm Safe Control Rope. Bi-coloured, and that Dry Cover treatment is nice on the rope (again, we don't have the dry rope, just the dry-cover). I think this looks like an awesome rope.

[Fred]

Fred, if you didn't have to 3:1 Martha up all those 5.6's and above, your ropes might last longer.

Andrew,
although my Maxim Glider shreaded when someone fell at the lip of Gumby's it will still be the next rope that I buy. Other peoples ropes have seen similar damage at the roof so I'm not ruling out user error. Check it out at Mountain Magic.

[martha]

Fred, if you didn't have to 3:1 Martha up all those 5.6's and above, your ropes might last longer.

you guys are hilarious....

It's okay Shawn, I know it upsets you that all the women climb harder than you. We all know Denise gets sent up the hard lines.