Anti Trad Climbers

[chameleon]

As a topic starter...I've been curious about people's views on trad climbing. I get the sense that most people on this message board - and indeed most people that call themselves climbers in Nova Scotia - are generally uninterested in getting into this side of the sport.

Is it too dirty, too scary, too expensive, or too cool for you? I've had my theories - but it'd be interesting to hear them first hand from some confirmed anti-trads.


Sean C.

[martha]

I consider myself a trad climber first. With my roots in Welsford, there is really no other way to be. I enjoy Sport climbing and some bouldering, but Trad and Ice are where my heart is.

A friend of mine (mitch) described trad climbing like this...(can you tell he doesn't like it?)

Trad climbing is like Anal Sex; Dirty, uncomfortable, awkward, painful, and usually only one of you and your partner wants to do it.

I don't see it that way...trad climbing that is.....

[Scooter]

i feel that there arent many ways a new climber can learn how to trad climb here. im probably wrong but thats what i have found. i would sure love to learn how to trad climb if someone experienced would offer a class or info session? id really like to get out with someone who wouldn;t mind teaching me a few things. ive read a few books but they dont exactly do the trick. also nova scotia is highly concentrated with boulders which makes it very conveinient (spelling?) for someone to just up and go climbing without any pre-set plans. and its inexpensive to boulder which many students tend to like.?!

[dcentral]

While I don't live in NS anymore. It's always been about cost. The people I do know who have trad gear out here don't really seem to climb much anymore.

Not having a car also limits my access too good climbing anyway whether its sport or trad.

There aren't too many people I know who are afraid of trad climbing. For most of them its a money issue.

[Fred]

If I'm planning a trip somewhere it's definitely going to be at a sport crag. I do however love trad climbing and do it 80% of the time around home. In these parts you have to climb trad to get on the good stuff. I like trad but I do hate getting on that odd route that scares the hell out of me. So when I go on vacation I like to relax in the comfort of sport and just get lots of mileage in. I consider myself to be a sport climber but in reality I'm mainly doing the trad thing.

As far as being cool.

trad = hardcore
hardcore = cool

thus, trad = cool

One thing I do hate though is nuts. What's up with those things? Oh and helmets. Helmets while trad climbing are cool but not cool if ya know what I mean? Leave those brain buckets at home kids or else you'll never make the cover of Gripped. Don't worry. You won't hit your head if you obey rule #1

rule #1 --> don't fall trad climbing

[Scooter]

actually on the cover of this months gripped magazine, the trad climber is wearing a helmet. a nice one too.

[granite_grrl]

Helmets while trad climbing are cool but not cool if ya know what I mean? Leave those brain buckets at home kids or else you'll never make the cover of Gripped.

Bah, you're obviously not acsessorizing properly!



it just wouldn't have been the same had I choosen the black sports bra over the blue one

[martha]

If I'm planning a trip somewhere it's definitely going to be at a sport crag. I do however love trad climbing and do it 80% of the time around home. In these parts you have to climb trad to get on the good stuff. I like trad but I do hate getting on that odd route that scares the hell out of me. So when I go on vacation I like to relax in the comfort of sport and just get lots of mileage in. I consider myself to be a sport climber but in reality I'm mainly doing the trad thing.

As far as being cool.

trad = hardcore
hardcore = cool

thus, trad = cool

One thing I do hate though is nuts. What's up with those things? Oh and helmets. Helmets while trad climbing are cool but not cool if ya know what I mean? Leave those brain buckets at home kids or else you'll never make the cover of Gripped. Don't worry. You won't hit your head if you obey rule #1

rule #1 --> don't fall trad climbing

Fred forgets that his wife is 50% of the decision making on road trips. And thus we do get to do lots of trad climbing. For example, our next two road trips are to the Gunks in September and to North Conway in October. Sport? I think not.

[martha]

oh yes..and I ALWAYS wear my helmet whether I'm leading trad or sport or even seconding.

Just the way it is. I like my brain far more than the thought of 'looking cool.

[The Mitt]

As for getting into the sport of Trad climbing I believe that the Stoners have anounced several times that we were going out and were willing to take anyone. Its not like its an exclusive group hell I'm in it (barely)

Mitt

[Scooter]

when we going

[mitchleblanc]

A friend of mine (mitch) described trad climbing like this...(can you tell he doesn't like it?)

Trad climbing is like Anal Sex; Dirty, uncomfortable, awkward, painful, and usually only one of you and your partner wants to do it.

a) I definitely never said that. My feelings towards trad are generally the same though: it sucks, amazingly bad.

b) trad = hardcore? false. Trad is lame. Trad means climbing miles below your level, never getting stronger, wasting time with gear, wasting money on gear, etc. Why is it more fun? I don't understand how placing your own gear makes climbing *any* more enjoyable. Trad is stupid. You can't climb faces. You can't climb hard. You might die.

c) Granite_grrl, I am well impressed. You make me want to be a better trad climber.. er... man.

d) It annoys me when people are content to do something and not improve at it, and it's been my experience that most "hardcore trad climbers" end up flailing on 5.9 for their entire career. Why? Not because they couldn't climb harder, but because improvement, both physical and technical (I mean technique, not gear. Well, that too), is inherently hindered by trad ethics.

e) Sport climbing sucks too. Just it's harder to make valid arguments as to why

[martha]

A friend of mine (mitch) described trad climbing like this...(can you tell he doesn't like it?)

Trad climbing is like Anal Sex; Dirty, uncomfortable, awkward, painful, and usually only one of you and your partner wants to do it.

a) I definitely never said that. My feelings towards trad are generally the same though: it sucks, amazingly bad.

Mitch, you definately said that to me in an email about 3 years ago. If I had of had G-mail then I would still have the letter. But hey, I think it is funny, so if you don't want to take credit for it then I'll start giving the credit to someone else.

[mitchleblanc]

Nope.. you're mistaken. It can't have been me.. the wording is all wrong. I don't want credit for it in any case. You can say that you said it, since a) its sounds like something you'd say and b) you made it up from a figment of your imagination, to technically you did say it.

[martha]

It wasn't a direct quote, but a paraphrase or jist of the idea of what I had read in that email to me a few years back.

sigh... the baby must be making me delirious....

[chameleon]

I think what Mitch is trying to say, is that Trad Climbing is just too damn sexy for him!!

[dquinn]

a) I definitely never said that. My feelings towards trad are generally the same though: it sucks, amazingly bad.

b) trad = hardcore? false. Trad is lame. Trad means climbing miles below your level, never getting stronger, wasting time with gear, wasting money on gear, etc. Why is it more fun? I don't understand how placing your own gear makes climbing *any* more enjoyable. Trad is stupid. You can't climb faces. You can't climb hard. You might die.

c) Granite_grrl, I am well impressed. You make me want to be a better trad climber.. er... man.

d) It annoys me when people are content to do something and not improve at it, and it's been my experience that most "hardcore trad climbers" end up flailing on 5.9 for their entire career. Why? Not because they couldn't climb harder, but because improvement, both physical and technical (I mean technique, not gear. Well, that too), is inherently hindered by trad ethics.

e) Sport climbing sucks too. Just it's harder to make valid arguments as to why

haha, hillarious, it's what everyone is thinking but no one wants to say.

[Nate]

When I talked to people before the summer it sounded like everyone was psyched to get into trad and then throughout the summer the interest sort of died or something...
Nate

[Fred]

If Cara hadn't given Mitch credit he would have turned the other way on her so it's a lose lose situation. why? I guess we'll never know the workings of 'the Mitch'

[mathieu]

d) It annoys me when people are content to do something and not improve at it, and it's been my experience that most "hardcore trad climbers" end up flailing on 5.9 for their entire career.

Hmmm good point, well if Mitch (AKA god) is annoyed when people that are content with their own skills and are enjoying themselves then they should probably stop having fun and start training for climbing so that they can compete on the same field as him and he can feel better about himself cause he's strong. What's the hardest problem you've done Mitch so that I can have a worthwhile goal in my life.

Thanks

Matt "I can't climb 5.8 trad" B

[Fred]

I think you're aiming for V12 Mat!!! have fun with the training.

"Train hard and succeed you will, young Jedi" Yoda

[mathieu]

I think you're aiming for V12 Mat!!! have fun with the training.

"Train hard and succeed you will, young Jedi" Yoda

Cool, thanks for the tip. Should I start with my forearms or should I work on my ego. I'm gonna first brush up on my lingo so that I can brag myself up to other climbers. So V9 is hard, right? Also Mitch can I have any tips on how to put other people down. I have a good resource from your previous posts on this forum but any other tips would help.

[mitchleblanc]

If Cara hadn't given Mitch credit he would have turned the other way on her so it's a lose lose situation. why? I guess we'll never know the workings of 'the Mitch'

No, really, I really didn't say that!

[mitchleblanc]

Hmmm good point, well if Mitch (AKA god) is annoyed when people that are content with their own skills and are enjoying themselves then they should probably stop having fun and start training for climbing so that they can compete on the same field as him and he can feel better about himself cause he's strong. What's the hardest problem you've done Mitch so that I can have a worthwhile goal in my life.

Thanks

Matt "I can't climb 5.8 trad" B

I never say anyone had to compare themselves me, and you don't need to go saying I have a big ego (I don't) or that I think I'm strong (I don't). I also never said anyone had to stop enjoying themselves. I never insulted anyone, either, though you can't say the same.

I was just kidding around, just so you know. If you are content to not improve, that is fine. I take it back.. it doesn't annoy me that "you" (whoever) aren't drawn to some of the same aspects of the sport as me... You do what you want, I don't care. My point was merely that trad climbing (in general) isn't a great "method" by which to become strong.

[chameleon]

Mitch,

I always like your irreverent comments - keep 'em coming!

Sean

[jeremy]

why do I keep thinking chris jones said that a long time ago on another forum????

jeremy

[martha]

the trad climbing/anal sex comment?

I dunno. Jones hasn't been a forum in years. the Really old NB climbers forum maybe a couple of years back.

I'm damn sure that I heard it from Mitch. But since he won't own it then I'll say that Chris said it.

yeah, that's it. Jonesy emailed me that phrase.

[Fred]

Split topic. Go to "gear" for continued discussion on helmets.

[mitchleblanc]

Mitch,

I always like your irreverent comments - keep 'em coming!

Sean

Thanks buddy. I'm glad *someone* has a sense of humour! Check out this forum thread for more mitch-related enjoyment.

http://www.vi-bouldering.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi/YaBB.cgi?board=news;action=display;num=1120999421

[climberwannabe]

Wow Mitch, and some of your posts on THIS website made me blush....

I watched that video too, thats awesome man. I've never bouldered before but wholly flowers, that looked hard.