by peter » Sun May 15, 2005 7:59 am
Led a new route (new for me and Thom), right of the Sleeper rappel; can't remember the name; 5.8ish.
Cleaned on lead and climbed a more direct variation on Oscar, but (again) got spanked on the crux, leaving a now-permanent wire, due to multiple falls on it.
How the hell does one pull over the crux? The route is 5.9+, and I have climbed and led harder, but couldn't find anything for (1) my left foot; or (2) a non-flaring crack above the crux.
Frustrating to look at the final move and exit for an hour, not to finish it! The holds above the crux require cleaning, as the cracks are filling in with dirt and fine particle organic material, making them rather shallow and slick. I actually had to use chalk (say it isn't so!), given the moisture in the holds.
Climbed out "Itchy and Scratchy" instead, now a nice leisurely climb due to repetition. Did you know it can be climbed with only three gear placements? Proves it is a Punshon route.
I am away next weekend, but Thom is around.
P.