Mega Man

[Fred]

Just curious...

has anyone, aside from Zig, repeated Meg Man since the key hold broke off? Zig says it's still the same grade but... well... there's a Woodlot full of sandbaged problems in Fredericton. hehe But seriously, I watched him pull through the top-out and there seemed to be lots there to grab. Just wondering if anyone else has tried it since.

[seanT]

Considering that Mega man was sandbagged from the very start at V3 and that climbers with less of a wing span had to fully extend just to get to the incut that is no longer with us I suspect that Mega Man is now in the V7ish range but I am weak and have a negative ape index. If you find it to hard or want to experience it in its original state let me know i still have the hold and would be more than happy to glue it back on then you can try both variations.
For the record though I have not got on it since the hold broke.
SeanT

[Fred]

Shawn,

I have never met you so I have no idea what your personality is like. I would like to think that your post was sarcastic but I'll assume you are being serious. In my opinion, I don't think glueing of any kind should take place. I'd much rather not be able to climb a new crappy V7 than be able to get on a classic re-built V4 with a glue on. But that's just me. I hope you will take advantage of this newly broken hold and treat this as a new problem to work on next season. Who knows, it might be totaly do-able at the same grade with just a bit different beta. I'm not familiar with the problem in particular, especially what it looked like before, but when I saw the first ascent of the 'new' problem it didn't look sick or anything. I know there had been some previous discusion this summer about Mega Man and the broken hold but I had not heard if anyone else had repeated the 'new' problem. I guess I was just wondering if anyone else had been on it to confirm a new grade.

This is a bad example because the Woodlot in Fredericton sucks but anywho. A couple of years ago I broke the key starting hold on Ogoshi V3. Everyone who came back to do the problem said it was way harder. But once I showed them some new beta instead of trying to climb the problem like in the past, they all agreed that it was about the same grade. I thought it was kinda fun and had a new problem to work on for a day.

Cheers!
p.s. Halifax bouldering rocks!

[mitchleblanc]

Considering that Mega man was sandbagged from the very start at V3 and that climbers with less of a wing span had to fully extend just to get to the incut that is no longer with us I suspect that Mega Man is now in the V7ish range but I am weak and have a negative ape index. If you find it to hard or want to experience it in its original state let me know i still have the hold and would be more than happy to glue it back on then you can try both variations.
For the record though I have not got on it since the hold broke.
SeanT

Giddyup cowboy, yeehaw! I'm all about glueing! We can take turns holding the piece of rock so it sets properly. I'll go first!

On a serious note, you must be kidding about glueing! Please reassure me.