Rock Climbing in Baxter's Harbour

[Jana]

Hey,
I live in Baxter's Harbour and have often walked along the cliffs (towards Halls Harbour) wondering if anybody has climbed them. The rock looks a little crumbly, so I was wondering how safe/good it would be... but there are a few spots that look fairly solid.

Has anyone climbed there (besides bouldering at Palmolive)? I'm hoping to find a spot close by to TR, as I would rather climb there if it's safe rather than drive all the way to Halifax.
Thanks,
J

[The Teth]

There is good ice climbing there, but I guess that is not what you are looking for.

Since you live there it may be worth your time to clear away the choss on any cliffs that might look promising. If you pry off anything that is really loose and scrub the sandy grit out of the holds you might come up with something that is safe enough and decent enough to climb.

It is way more work than developing on the higher quality rock elsewhere in the province, but if you live there it will be worth it. Ware a helmet.

[chossmonkey]

The many of the best sport crags across the USA were passed off as unclimbable by earlier generations. Unfortunately developing these types of cliffs is more like construction work than climbing. The results can be quite good if done properly.

[Nette]

I was out there today bouldering and had the same thought. It would definitely take some time but I live close by and I wouldn't mind developing some routes (if there is any).

[peter]

Routes that were developed on basalt at Sandy Cove, Trout Cove, and Gulliver's Head are all set back from the water (i.e., they are well inland or are at least protected by a high, grassy embankment). If you can find similar areas between Baxter's Cove and Margaretsville, it might be worth the effort (they are there, particularly where the cliff has collapsed, creating a barrier below and leaving clean rock above). High, prow-like features should have less water seeping into and out of the rock, and be less fractured as a result. Lower, run-off areas of the cliff will be brittle and always changing with the winter freeze-thaw cycle.

You might take a run down to the Digby Neck, to look at those areas and get ideas. The majority of those routes are bolted, as the rock is featured with decent holds, but often not featured enough to take solid trad protection (there are exceptions). My guess is you want areas that you can clean on top-rope, are set back from the ravages of salt-water winter storms, and look solid enough to bolt.

The over-hanging nature of much of the rock, particularly at the bottom, may make safe cleaning and bolting a challenge. For the same reason, the start will probably often be the crux, so pick areas where you can do the start bouldering-style and the rock looks solid above, then start cleaning and bolting. (Full disclosure: I have only ever ice climbed in the area where you live, but have eye-balled the rock often enough as a result, and have done some mixed climbing there. I have trad and top-rope climbed at Sandy Cove, but I have never placed a bolt in my life.)

[Jana]

Right on, thanks for the advice guys.

Nette, if you want to get together to clean up a spot, that'd be great. I would rather do it with someone than on rappel by myself.

[Nette]

Hey Jana,

Sounds good to me, I could probably only come out next sunday at the earliest but maybe in the evenings if I can get a ride. If you want to get a hold of me my cell number is 902-670-9427.
Cheers,

Nette

[joelh]

Hey,

I've spent quite a bit of time exploring, climbing, and mapping large parts of the fundy shore from Hall's Harbour to Cape Split (and other parts of the Valley). Unfortunetly most of the rock is far too dangerous and chossy to climb, or even make cleaning worth it. A few awesome spots that i cleaned i returned a year later to find huge death block teetering on the route.

Having said that some spots are amazing. The basalt features are varied, from wicked cracks to pocket routes. The best ones are on the edges of larger coves where the basalt is more dense and erosion resistant. Some of the best cliffs are across the bay on the shore going out to cape split. Access is sometimes problematic depending on the tide, any outing is definitely an adventure. ALWAYS wear a helmet, and suspect every hold when scrambling around.

On the Baxter Harbour side there are solid cliffs right by the waterfall, and if you go toward Scott's Bay there is the Black Hole with good cliffs along both sides and an amazing cliff at the waterfall deep into the canyon. It is accessible by a trail from the 90degree corner of Black Hole road.

There is some larger stuff the farther you go toward Hall's Harbour, but most of it is pretty loose and would require some serious cleaning to make safe. I have a binder of maps and route topos. Let me know if you want to check them out or if you develop something i can add to what i have.

I just had my first baby, so i'm not sure what the summer looks like, but i'd also love to get out with a crew and do some cleaning and climbing.

Call 542-0357 or email hornborg@staff.ednet.ns.ca

Cheers,
Joel

[Nette]

Sounds great Joel. I was planning to do as much development around the valley as possible because there is a lack of established areas close by. So far I have found some spots just wondering around in the woods with a contour map and geology map and I have a couple places that have lots of potential. Last weekend I found a great crag that is all granite, with lots of highball boulder problems as well as some trad and sport routes (nothing over 10m though). This weekend looks bad for going out but maybe next weekend we could get out and clean these routes up for some sends.

[joelh]

Nette,

Give me a call so we can chat 542-0357. I'd love to share some maps and directions. With a 5 week baby boy i don't know how often i'll get out, but it always helps to get out when someone else is keen too. Give me a shout.

Joel

[Jana]

I'm up for climbing as well, weekends would probably be best for me.

Nette, if you get maps and info from Joel I'd love to explore some spots with you. I don't have a climbing partner in the area.

[Jana]

That's pretty cool, both spots are really close to my house. I haven't checked out the cliff by black hole, I'll have to go for a walk there and rappel down. It's a really neat spot.

Hey,

I've spent quite a bit of time exploring, climbing, and mapping large parts of the fundy shore from Hall's Harbour to Cape Split (and other parts of the Valley). Unfortunetly most of the rock is far too dangerous and chossy to climb, or even make cleaning worth it. A few awesome spots that i cleaned i returned a year later to find huge death block teetering on the route.

Having said that some spots are amazing. The basalt features are varied, from wicked cracks to pocket routes. The best ones are on the edges of larger coves where the basalt is more dense and erosion resistant. Some of the best cliffs are across the bay on the shore going out to cape split. Access is sometimes problematic depending on the tide, any outing is definitely an adventure. ALWAYS wear a helmet, and suspect every hold when scrambling around.

On the Baxter Harbour side there are solid cliffs right by the waterfall, and if you go toward Scott's Bay there is the Black Hole with good cliffs along both sides and an amazing cliff at the waterfall deep into the canyon. It is accessible by a trail from the 90degree corner of Black Hole road.

There is some larger stuff the farther you go toward Hall's Harbour, but most of it is pretty loose and would require some serious cleaning to make safe. I have a binder of maps and route topos. Let me know if you want to check them out or if you develop something i can add to what i have.

I just had my first baby, so i'm not sure what the summer looks like, but i'd also love to get out with a crew and do some cleaning and climbing.

Call 542-0357 or email hornborg@staff.ednet.ns.ca

Cheers,
Joel

[SeanM]

I'd like to stop by and help out cleaning up some Baxter's harbour routes, too. I'm an indoor climber so far, so the only gear I've got is my harness and chalk, but I'd be up for cleaning some low spots, anyway. Send me an email if you're planning a day of it. sean.murphy [at] acadiau.ca.

[eva]

Me too! You all have my number, I think (except for Joel), but just in case, 542-0046.

Also, I didn't get out to the upper half of the section of the Gaspereau River between Gaspereau lake and White Rock to explore that section where it gets real steep on the topo maps last weekend. Anyone up for a bushwhacking, bug-filled exploratory adventure this weekend? Or know of where I could borrow or rent a canoe or kayak?

Eva

[SeanM]

Eva, I'm out this weekend (fishing and hopefully getting some errands run in the city), but hit me up again next weekend. We can discuss it further friday, since I never seem to get to your side of campus anymore (Its WAY OVER THERE!)

Incidentally, do you guys have hot water? 'coz we don't.

[joelh]

Nette, Eva et al.,

Climbing days are approaching and it sounds like there is a small crew around here. We should all hook up an email list or something. I've had years of exploring adventures in the eastern valley scouring topos for tight contour lines. Some come up empty, others super exciting. I've got many good areas mapped out from South Mountain Boulder fields to Fundy Basalt crags and some gems in between and usually a couple of good routes cleaned and climbed at each. It sure makes finding good climbing spots quicker to know how to get there and what is there. I'm keen to share with other keen climbers.

How do we best all connect? Start an email list? Mine is: hornborg@staff.ednet.ns.ca

May i suggest a climbing meeting at White Rock (decent slab climbing and bouldering). How about Sunday at 1pm, i'll bring my crag binder and a bunch of gear? This is NOT a learn to climb session, for experienced climbers only. Spread the word?

Cheers,
Joel

[Nette]

Hey Joel,

Count me in for sure. I've been meaning to try some of those boulders at white rock. Have you spoken with the owner of the house that has a large cliff in their yard?

Nette

[SeanM]

Joel, while there's no email list, per sey, there is a facebook group called "Valley Climbing Geeks" that most of the valley people (Eva, Nette, Joey Deveau, Carolyn and myself) are part of. I'd recommend hooking up with that if you want to keep in touch with the locals and maybe plan some hook ups.

I'll look in to creating a list, if there's interest, but I'm starting to think that with this page, the facebook group, and private email, there's too many venues already for information to get lost in. I didn't know about the sunday white rock trip until Nette just messaged me about 5 minutes ago.

[SeanM]

That being said, is there any interest in creating a web site for us local valley people to use for information exchange and mailing lists? I could bang something together in a couple days, if the interest is there. I've had the idea before, but generally shied away from it, just because facebook did everything I needed it to do, like forums and messaging and picture sharing and such.

[eva]

Shoot, I can't come today.

I've started a new topic in the Nova Scotia forum with directions to the granite sites on the upper Gaspereau River that I saw yesterday. Sean, I think between this forum and the Facebook group, we're set for web sites.

Eva

[SeanM]

Oh phew. I didn't really want to dust off my web design skills.

Nice find in White Rock, Eva. I was out poking around that area today, previous to having read your descriptions, and knew there must be something around there, but as I was alone, I figured it best to not go too deep into the woods. Let me know if you get some folks together to go out there and clean up a bit.

PS: I was in Lunenberg County yesterday and managed to pick up about half a dozen ticks in the span of a 10 minute trek through the woods. I think I found where they make ticks for the whole province.

[Nette]

I've heard that that's where the tick that carries lime disease was introduced to nova scotia. So if you think you have been bitten at all, go get checked out because it's easy to treat if you get it early!

[SeanM]

Nah, I'm clean. Ticks ON you arent' generally dangerous.. its when they embed their creepy little heads in your skin that you need to worry. All the ones I found were on my shoes from walking through the low brush. Thanks for the concern, though.

[Jana]

I have a suggestion... why don't we have a regular Sunday climbing adventure day... we could go out to different places (or not) each Sunday, and check out the undeveloped stuff in the area.

I, for one, am more likely to go if we have a specific day to do things... if that doesn't work out for other people though, I guess I'll just have to be more flexible hehe.

I'm up for exploring black hole this Sunday... or anything else close to Baxter's Harbour... I can't venture too far from home cus I'm expecting a visitor from Ottawa to arrive Sunday afternoon.

If you guys want to get an email list going for climbing you can send me an email at littlemagellan@gmail.com and I can send out an email to everyone so we all have each other's email addresses.

[joelh]

I have to say, after all these years it's pretty exciting to have other folks finally connecting. I don't know how many times i've found willing climbing geeks to go climbing, but the exploration and cleaning involved can be arduous and usually turns away all but the passionate.

I have to admit, i'm a steadfast non-facebook user (life is busy enough), but i think a regular climbing day and SOME way of connecting everyone is key. Maybe this forum and phone calls is best. I handed off copies of most of my crag exploration and topo work to Nette and would gladly work to keep that stuff in order as new routes are created. These are all my rough sketches, but i've worked with mapping software and occassionally make the time to do them up properly (mostly route development i did while living in Sweden).

What i gave to Nette is anything i've spent time developing, and doesn't include all the bouldering areas, and a half dozen or so good (but usually remote) crags. If you want directions or tips on any of these give me a call.

Finally, and i think this i crucial; if areas are going to see more traffic we should start considering access issues (do we have permission for land use, and who has access to these areas since most involve alot of good judgement and decision making). Maybe a solid affiliation with CNS for route development and access would be good.

In the mean time lets get out and climb. I'm done school after this week so maybe we could meet up next Sunday? Bugs will likely be bad after all this rain, so maybe one of my fav's along the fundy shore...location TBD...

Joel

P.S. Nette are you missing a BD locking biner?

[SeanM]

Facebook is only a time suck if you let it be. I use it for the climbing forum we've come together to create, easy access to messaging others in the group (now 35 strong), and setting up climbing events (like the Old Mill Crag expedition that's coming together for Friday).

If you set yourself up as hard to find, you won't be flooded with people you once met at a party that knows a cousin of a brother of your girlfriend. I'd highly recommend making an account and joining the VCG group if nothing else. I know I won't be posting all the outings I try to put together here, as I keep forgetting this exists, in the face of the very active facebook group.

Just my $0.02

[joelh]

Thanks Sean,

I'm officially on, but...

How do i find the VCG group (i looked and searched)

And how do i attach the "difficult to find" clause...

Thanks for the info and i'll be in touch for some adventures, once the rain stops...

Joel

[SeanM]

I know people who go by pseudonyms on facebook, and then don't add friends to their list. I dunno, really. Or just ignore friend requests and stuff

The group is "Valley Climbing Geeks", if you search for it, you'll find it. Hope to see you in the group soon.