Medicine Wall new route

It’s sharp....really sharp!

Moderators: chossmonkey, Dom, granite_grrl, peter, Climb Nova Scotia, Matt Peck

Medicine Wall new route

Postby Stevo » Mon May 29, 2006 7:07 am

This route tackles the fine crack which forms the upper part of the line previously top-roped and described in the guidebook as "Breast Implant". I'm pretty sure that it hasn't been led free before.

Heart Transplant 5.10c G (S. Punshon and S. Kelly, 28th May 06)
Start about 3m right of Laceration on a flat slab of rock and climb a right trending groove for 15 ft until level with the overlap. Traverse L to gain the crack and follow it on finger and thin-hand jams though two overhangs to the top.

There is a picture of Sean Cassidy attempting this on the Cape Clear message board
http://www.capeclear.org/forum/phpBB2/index.php

Cheers
Steve
Stevo
 
Posts: 314
Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 10:22 am
Location: St. Margarets Bay

Postby The Mitt » Mon May 29, 2006 6:28 pm

What an outstanding climb for such a sort pitch. Slab to a roof, to a slab, to a bit of a roof again. Very sharp!!

Mitt
User avatar
The Mitt
 
Posts: 847
Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2004 5:22 pm
Location: Prospect NS


Return to Nova Scotia

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 66 guests

cron