Climb Eastern Canada

by **mike** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 8:09 am

1. One should not only be equal to any climb that one undertakes, but be more than equal to it.

2. The standard of difficulty which a climber can conquer with safety when descending, and for which he can consider himself competent, with an easy conscience, should represent the limit of what he should attempt on his ascent.

3. Hence the use of artificial aids only becomes justifiable in case of sudden threatening danger.

4. The piton is an emergency aid and not the basis of a system of mountaineering.

5. The rope may be used to facilitate matters, but never as a sole means to make a climb possible. (meaning tension traverses were OK, but not pendulums).

6. The principle of safety is one of the highest principles. Not the spasmodic correction of ones own want of safety, obtained by the use of artificial aids, but that true primary safety which should result, with every climber, from a just estimate of what he is able, and what he desires, to do.

by **chameleon** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 1:30 pm

What's your point, Sparky?

-s

by **climberwannabe** » Tue Dec 13, 2005 10:20 am

Point #2 doesnt make much sense to me.

by **jeremy** » Tue Dec 13, 2005 10:38 am

don't climb up what you can't climb down........see sketchy, ballzy ie: ice climbing

by **climberwannabe** » Tue Dec 13, 2005 6:01 pm

climb down? isnt that what rappelling is for?

by **martha** » Tue Dec 13, 2005 6:05 pm

climberwannabe wrote:climb down? isnt that what rappelling is for?

well sure, unless you get on a route that was mis-described or you get yourself off route and get in over your head, and there is no bolt or any place for gear to rap off and your only option is to retreat to your last anchor...thus climbing down...

by **jeremy** » Tue Dec 13, 2005 6:11 pm

climb down? isnt that what rappelling is for?

also see stone mountain, north carolina. 1-2 bolts per 30m pitch, and no natural gear.

by **climberwannabe** » Tue Dec 13, 2005 8:17 pm

damn.. it doesnt include top-ropers!!! hehe

by **Fred** » Tue Dec 13, 2005 8:54 pm

LOL

can you imagine down climbing Stone Mountain!!!!!

by **martha** » Wed Dec 14, 2005 8:11 am

Fred wrote:LOL

can you imagine down climbing Stone Mountain!!!!!

Do you mean 'whitehorse slabs'? Cause that would be a heck of a down climb...

I think you'd be safer to just lay down on your belly and go for a slide. Perhaps taking knee/elbow pads up there would be useful in case you need to retreat!

Climb Eastern Canada

The six rules of Paul Preuss:

The six rules of Paul Preuss:

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