MEC Halifax

[mike]

Ice stuff that I would like to see in store:

-mid legnth screws- those stuby ones are too short and the long ones are, well, too long.

-zippers

-big ice biners (those red ones, with the wire gates, that MEC used to stock, are the shiznet)

...one for the wish list... a screw sharpening machine.

Mike

[waterat]

Ice stuff that I would like to see in store:


-zippers

-big ice biners (those red ones, with the wire gates, that MEC used to stock, are the shiznet)


Mike

Hey Mike... I have a zipper runner here I can mail ya....seeing as how I never fall off it is, of course, unused....

cheers...

[ben smith]

get some of those 3 dollar high ball pad inserts they would sell super quickly- hell I'd buy 5 or 6 myself.

[Climbing4life]

has there ever been , or would it be a good idea to , have a top rope anchor kit , complete with slings and locking beeners?

[martha]

has there ever been , or would it be a good idea to , have a top rope anchor kit , complete with slings and locking beeners?

Metolious made one of those a few years ago, but honestly, it sucks cause you are stuck with those exact biners and slings instead of the ones that you might *really* want. It is okay for someone who has no idea what to buy, but once you've climbed outside a few times with other people you'll get the hang of what type of gear (biners, slings, brands) that you prefer.

Cara

[The Mitt]

has there ever been , or would it be a good idea to , have a top rope anchor kit , complete with slings and locking beeners?

That's a good idea however it is hard because everyplace is different, so you need slightly different gear (lengths of sling and such) per area.

Mitt

[Climbing4life]

ya i know how to build i anchor ground(i mean bolt) up , SteveA `s son has shown me , i just hate how it is soo expensive but i guess the gear is saving your life its worth the money

[dcentral]

Top Rope Anchors are really cheap in comparison to everything else.

Several meters of webbing and a handful of biners and you are all set.

[Climbing4life]

Top Rope Anchors are really cheap in comparison to everything else.

Several meters of webbing and a handful of biners and you are all set.

thats true for some reason i thought i needed slings to build an anchor but webbing is jsut as good and way cheaper ..
Good call .
thats y i`m glad this website is here

[tracstarr]

just make sure you know how to tie the webbing if that's what your going to use. i've seen a few people who don't have a clue.

[dcentral]

Know your knots is key.

Webbing is a lot more versatile too then fixed slings. You can tie different styles of anchors as well.

But all have their place and are good to have in your bag or on your harness as the case maybe.

[The Mitt]

Where possible stay away from girth hitching slings/webbing and never girth hitch the 8mm slings.

Mitt

[Nate]

I was looking for a concensis on gear types, whats neccessary and whats not etc..

Sounds like interest in a meeting is waning so, maybe I'll give up on that. Theres a bunch of info on what people want here anyways..

What I'd like to see:

DMM Cams: cheap, quality cams

Ovals: locking, non-locking...they are great biners

Anasazi Lace ups!

Thanks a bunch for doing this Sean and Sean

nate

[mike]

hey Alan,

It's not a yellow one with red biners is it?

Gimme!
Mike

[waterat]

...what are you suggesting, Mike ?.....anyways, it is yellow but me missus put it in my xmas stocking a few years back....it is still as pure as the driven snow too !

[mike]

I never really felt it was necessary to place pro in frozen grass either.

[waterat]

...it's frozen TURF, Mike, not grass !.... anyways, the main reason I dont bother placing gear in winter is that I am too shitscared to stop to do so !! Find it an easier option to just keep thugging away until the rope goes tight.....

[mike]

TomAto, toMAto- grass, turf. It's all the same 'till the second is staring up at scottish bollocks.

At least yer not delusional about your climing style.

I mighta wrecked my pants if you hadda used words like agile or graceful!

Mike

[waterat]

we are kinda getting off topic here, but seeing as how you brought it up, can I help it if I have shed loads of raw natural talent, honed to perfection by years of hard core heavy metal climbing on dripping wet dark and dank scottish crags ?...that sort of stuff tends to develop a fairly unique climbing style y'see ?....

[The Teth]

Back on topic.... I too may be in the market for a zippers or screamer in the spring when I start aid climbing again. If I ever progress into harder aid I may need a few of them. I don’t expect that screamers would be a big seller around her though, so a couple in stock would be enough.

Teth

[The Teth]

Further to that, if MEC stocked screamers, then maybe Punshon would buy some. They may prevent him from landing on his belayer if he ever falls on one of those long run-outs. (Is it blaspheme to suggest that the mighty P might fall?) Anyway, I am just saying... if you are going to climb 30 feet above your last piece, then maybe that piece should have a screamer on it. For that matter, if you can only place a #1 RP nut before the crux, maybe you should put a screamer on that too? Or is screamer technology too much of a newfangled gadget to be placed on his rack?

[chossmonkey]

Back on topic.... I too may be in the market for a zippers or screamer in the spring when I start aid climbing again. If I ever progress into harder aid I may need a few of them. I don’t expect that screamers would be a big seller around her though, so a couple in stock would be enough.

Teth

I normally try and clip most fixed pins and old bolts with a Screamer. I rarely carry more than two on my rack unless I know there are a lot of old pins/bolts or when climbing ice. We have a whole pile of them for ice climbing and use them on most screws.

I prefer the Yates products to the much overpriced Petzl jobbies that MEC carries. Yates also makes a Screamer for aid climbing that activates at a lower force.

[granite_grrl]

I really like to have a couple of screamers on my rack, for old pins and bolts like Nathan said. But I don't think there are that many manky pins and bolts in NS, but they are fabulous to have in an area like the Gunks.

[The Mitt]

Some of the bolts are getting there. I would start to question a few of them on First face.

Mitt

[Zamboni]

CNS has plans to replace some of the bolts at first face. Eagles nest has to get done first.

FYI,

Re-bolted routs at Eagles nest,

MAIN CRAG

Line #2 Done
Line #3-5 Done

[MEC Halifax]

FYI: Hilti KB3 bolts 3/8 X 3" $2.40 each and we have 25 on hand with another 25 in the next week or two.

Also, we have 78 Fixe bolt hangers 3/8" at $2 each.

Happy climbing.

[Zamboni]

Wooo hooo

[*Chris*]

Since no-one else has mentioned it... more small cams. Thanks.