cape clear

[The Teth]

I will be in Mabou this weekend, but I doubt my wife will let me take the short detour. So close, yet still so far away. I would love to see Cape Clear.

Teth

[The Mitt]

My wife is from a town about 20 min away, I spoke to some of the guys who skidoo up there and they say yes, but is it climbable? Dunno.

Mitt

[Fred]

Can anyone tell me if this line (in blue) looks do-able in terms of number of pitches and heights. I have no idea of the height of this wall except it's 300ft or so. The line in green is Shaw T's route I believe. So if the height of the bottom pitch of his is about 30m then the corner pitch I've marked up might be more than 30m I suspect. Also, the area in purple looks like it might have some potential if that ledge below can be somewhat safely traversed/traveled.

[The Mitt]

From what I remember the line looks great, getting set up to rap and clean will be a nightmare. I am willing to help

Mitt

[Fred]

but do you think those pitch lenghts I marked are less than 30m rappels? It probably won't happen for me this weekend but this line is certainly in my dreams. I hope it goes mostly with gear but I'd likely place rap rings at belay ledges if there aren't any trees. Any objections?

[The Mitt]

Second pitch may be a bit long, Sean T would know for sure.

Mitt

[Fred]

that's what I'm thinking too. A hanging belay in that corner would suck too. Hopefully it's 30m bang on. But hey you do what you gota do. I also wouldn't want to put up rap stations that require double rope rappels. Such hassel to carry two ropes.

[Fred]

yeah yeah I know this thread is getting too much air time. LOL

I don't remember if I've asked this. You guys all mention there is a lot of cleaning required. Now is this mostly cleaning out cracks? and getting rid of bad flakes and loose blocks? or is it Lichen. Blocks and flakes I don't mind but my tendonitis aches just thinking about 300ft of Lichen scrubbing.

[The Mitt]

All of the above, but mainly loose flakes and blocks

Mitt

[Fred]

that's what I like to hear!

[Fred]

Here is a trip report from John Bowles. I had to post it on my website


http://www.beta-source.com/beta/CapeClear/CapeClear.htm

[The Mitt]

Where is the river wall?

Mitt

[Fred]

I think in the guidebook, Left Wall is called River Wall. no?

[The Mitt]

One of the many problems with this wall is that its really hard to get to know where everything is. I think it would be worth while to spend the weekend just marking out routes to the base of climbs.

Mitt

[Fred]

From what John and Chris tell me, getting to the climb is more epic than the climb itself.

[john]

River wall is not left wall bnoth are labeled in the nova scotia guide but the guide does not note that there is also another wall even lower than river wall which is unamed and has no routes it is a slab about 30-40 ft high and not really note worthy considering the rest of the rock in the area.

[Fred]

So the route you did is on River Wall correct? "A-Sent from Heaven"

because there is a cool flake up the middle of Left Wall that looks cool. i thought that was what you were talking about.

[Fred]

I've decided to make this thread "sticky" so that all info regarding Cape Clear can be posted in one thread.

We went to Cape Clear this weekend. Words to describe it: huge, amazing, tired, discouraging. We got rained out but had some time to work on some projects. We'll have a full trip report with what we accomplished.

[Fred]

John has submited his trip report from our weekend. I've started a new 'locked' thread (titled CAPE CLEAR INFO) where I'll post links and releveant info for Cape Clear. If you have anything you'd like to compile into that thread please let me know and I can add it for you.

I'll be posting a trip report shortly. Very busy these days.

[dcentral]

We really need two of these in here? Why can't the Cape Clear Links go in your links section?

[The Mitt]

Any relevent info I can post to the Cape Clear site.

Sean

[Fred]

We really need two of these in here? Why can't the Cape Clear Links go in your links section?

yes because one is locked and won't get clutered. I will just add links to it and compile all the info in one sticky thread. I'm not adding trip reports to the links menu on this site. It would just be too messy if you start adding trip reports from all of the maritimes.

[Fred]

Any relevent info I can post to the Cape Clear site.

Sean

might I suggest compiling the new routes info on your site. I don't think it needs photos just yet but maybe just a very simple list of routes. nothing fancy

I forgot to mention, there are photos on my http://www.beta-source.com website from our visit this weekend. Enjoy.

I'll have a report of "Anihilator" as soon as possible.

[Fred]

I finally wrote up a trip report.

click here

I also added the link with the compiled Cape Clear info.

enjoy!

[Josh Overdijk]

Does anyone have info on cape clear they will share? Pritty much all the links ive looked at have been dead ends. years ago i found lots of good stuff online, but it seems to be gone. I will be climbing there tomorrow, any info would be greatly appreciated. Post on here or send to JoshOverdijk@gmail.com

Thanks so much, Josh Overdijk