Black Brook

[The Teth]

I took a brief look at the cliff at Black Brook on Saturday. It is a really unique cliff. Definitely worth a visit for any 5.5 to 5.8 range trad climber. I would really like to go back and do some climbing. There is enough there for a really fun two day climbing trip. Worm up on some 5.5 or 5.6 trad (rather than worming up on tope rope), then climb in the 5.7/5.8 range until you are pumped out, then back to the easy stuff. The climbs look like they would be a lot of fun and consistent, with good rock and good pro.

The rock is not as sharp as the rock around Halifax, and there are more face holds, but there are also plenty of cracks for trad gear. I saw several spots where you could do a full on face climb and still have enough cracks within reach for good trad protection.

It would make for a fun weekend trip. It is probably a six hour drive. Might be good to drive to Bedeck (4 hours) Friday night, camp (or rent a room) then 2 hours to the cliff Saturday, climb the rest of the day, camp, climb Sunday morning, and then drive home. (Don’t forget to stop in at the Warden’s office in Ingonish to get a climbing permit.) It would be fun with a small group. If anyone is considering it, let me know.

Teth