Gibralter Rock Bouldering Guide

[stoneseeker]

Hey guys,

Well, its done for now. You may have seen a printed copy of it at League night Monday, now you can print off or download your own.

It’s a start, but theres so much more bouldering to document in Musquodoboit, so hopefully, if we get positive feedback and people actually end up using this, we’ll keep adding more. Directions and a map are included in the file.

Big thanks to Mark Maas, Chris Eager, Todd Foster, and Dan Freeman for all the help.

Let me know if it's clear, easy to use, and if you find stuff alright. If there is any confusion about climbs or directions, let me know here.

I've posted it to Bouldering.ca where the guide can be downloaded from. heres the link: http://bouldering.ca/gibralter-rock-bouldering-guide-2/

[ben smith]

nice work luke.

Also anyone want to go to Gibralter on the weekend?
I forgot how rad that place is.

[Baxterminator]

Thanks! this is great for folks like me who are still new to a lot of outdoor spots.

Anyone have a copy of the Herring cove bouldering guide?

[seanT]

Herring Cove is pretty much a "eliminate" area... find the rock and climb avoid certain features/holds to make it more spicy. Check out Dyno Flatulator dyno goes from a small corner on little crimps dynto to ledge top out scary... or the Dyno Flatulator traverse ....start far left of Dyno flatulator and traverse into the dyno. V7 the Dyno alone is V5.
good luck
Sean

[Rich]

Great guide Luke! Psyched to check out your additions to the area...

With regards "The Yammy" it was my understanding that this line was yet to see a send ...wouldn't be suprised if it got a bit of attention now though - great looking line. Also, I had cleaned what you call "a man needs a maid" several years ago but never got back to give it a go so I'm pretty sure your send woulda been the first.
Cheers

Rich

[Rich]

Ben - if yer going to Gibralter give me a call at 827-1361. I was thinking of getting out in Musq this weekend and Gibralter seems appropriate...

[the kydd]

Great looking guide, Luke!

Looks like this would be a good winter location. Hopefully I'll get the chance to check it out over the holidays when I'm kicking around NS.

[stoneseeker]

Thanks guys!

Rich, good to hear more about the Yammy! I know Adam Benjamin was eyeing it up and talking trash about throwing it down when he came back haha ... maybe it will get enough attention now to see a send?

Also, sorry to snake the line man! (A man needs a maid) I was wondering why it seemed cleaner then the rest! You should definitely get on it tomorrow, it is quality fun. Also, if your doing easy highballs, get on "High Rise" as well. ***!

Actually, I may just join you and Ben tomorrow for a sesh. I could use some outdoors after all this flu crap.

[john]

I am seriously impressed, thats artwork. beautiful guide

[stoneseeker]

thanks John, I appreciate the feedback, I cant wait to make more for the larger areas in Musquodoboit.

Rich and Ben, did you guys climb out there on Saturday?? I'd be curious to hear how it went, and if you guys got on any of the projects. Also, confirmations on grades would be nice if you feel any are way off or anything.

[betaburgler]

WOW! Nice job Luke! Fantastic guide, really excited to make it out to check all of this out.

[Rich]

Hey Luke,

Nah...never got out - figured it would be too wet. Maybe next weekend...

Cheers

Rich

[Eager]

Hey Rich,

Shawn and I worked "the Yammy" quite a few times when we first started climbing at Gibralter. I can't remember if I sent it from the sit or not it was such a long time ago and we were out there infrequently. I do remember doing the problem from a stand skipping the one hard move from the sit, which was really good. Naturally I think the problem should be done from the sit but considering it really is a one move wonder and being that it's such an aesthetic line I don't think this should deter people from trying it from the stand since the moves are good on a overhanging piece of rock. There are lots of problems like this in Squamish, problems with low starts. I don't care if it gets renamed or someone else claims the FA, Anyhow I hope this clears up why the problem has a name in Lukes guide. Hope everyone gets out there before it snows.

I'm moving back to Canada for the time being so if any east coasters are in BC or Alberta this winter and looking to climb ice, mixte, or shred pow PM me.

[stoneseeker]

UPDATE:

"Cocktail Slapfest" is not V7. It is V6.

"Another Arete" is dirty...needs a good scrub. I may have found an alternate sit start on it today that will make it far more worth doing for the future anyway. Avoid till then.

Another page for Lost Stones area is on the way... including the Lost Slab, and a few other boulders in the area.

....and I have been getting some feedback that the guide may be hard to read in some spots. I'll try and fix that in the next update as well, so maybe hold off wasting all your ink cartridges on this guide till then. Or print it off at Staples so its cheap.


later. get out and climb! It's sticky babey!