Ice Conditions 09/10

[buzzard]

Maritime weather is not being very nice. Lot can change in a week. Has anyone found anything to climb?

[Danger]

Ice is in at Halls,
Things are leadable

[Nette]

anyone up for Friday, Saturday, or Sunday? Tides & weather will be cooperating nicely

[Danger]

Things are prime down at Halls, all is in and can be lead with more then shorty sketchy screws.
Also down to the Black Hole area, things are still good there.
The recent freeze made the waterfall proper down there leadable, the middle is open, but the sides are good enough, Rich gave it a whirl said it was easy peasy WI2ish?
Also lead that last undone line down there, the middle one. WI3+ish

Was in too the Quarry recently and it was about as good as it ever gets, leadable on the leftish side, mostly not open.
Still a bit squirrely, but with this last cold snap, probably fine.

[Simon]

anyone up for Friday, Saturday, or Sunday? Tides & weather will be cooperating nicely

I'm up for Saturday and maybe Sunday but I will come back somewhat early Sunday.
sim_nois@hotmail.com or 220-4528
Simon

[peter]

I can get out Sunday, but not Saturday; and not just to avoid L'Oiseau. Or is that le drôle d'oiseau?

Simon: I could start early and finish early Sunda, if you want to car share, but I am a single parent Saturday ....

Peter

[Simon]

Ok Peter, I will call you tomorrow night or call me if I don't, I'm up for climbing again Sunday.
Cheers,
Simon

[Danger]

The ice...she melts, but still lives
Was out today too the Old Baxter Mill Rd. Ice (I think others refer too that location as Baxter Mill West?), it was melting fast and raining which sucked, but still climbable was good.... she might last well through this warm bit. She's was pretty fat, a little bit aerated but nothing too saucy.
I would guess by how fast the thicker ice was melting there, that the thinner ice down Halls way would be out.
Should be getting cold again soon.

[peter]

Glad I climbed on Sunday.

It was a great season while it lasted.

Next year.

[Scooter]

If she resurrects I'd like to get out.

[Ryan_woods]

I hope it comes back atleast long enough for me to try my crampons that came today and maybe try some tools, the 14 day trend Isn't looking too satisfying though.

[Nette]

I'm planning to go out on Sunday. If there's nothing thick on the coast I will likely go inland. The only set back is that nothing inland is very tall and lacks steep ice.

[Danger]

Ropeguns for hire...
In exchange for a ride down to the ice on Sunday, Seb will lead up anything (no matter how thin, non-existant or otherwise sh*tty) and set up a beautiful safe and fun top rope for your enjoyment. I will of course, belay him like a attentive chimp.

In conclusion...
two folks would like a ride to the ice on Sunday


Also...
The bedford highway ice is existent! which is promising for the coast...

[Nette]

High tide is at 12:36pm on Sunday so If we are going for coastal routes then we should aim for a very early start.

[Scooter]

Yeeeeeeeeeeeoooowww! Anybody have extra boots?

[Nette]

I have the alpine crampons which work with hiking boots. I can also get a couple sizes from my friend Luke. What size are your feet?

[Ryan_woods]

Ropeguns for hire...
In exchange for a ride down to the ice on Sunday, Seb will lead up anything (no matter how thin, non-existant or otherwise sh*tty) and set up a beautiful safe and fun top rope for your enjoyment. I will of course, belay him like a attentive chimp.

In conclusion...
two folks would like a ride to the ice on Sunday

might be able to arrange something if you guys still need a ride, any idea of what time you want to head out? I'd probably be dropping the girlfriend off at her sisters place on Brunswick St. anyway possible I could pick you up around there? I'd really like to try my hand on the ice so let me know. blue05raptor@hotmail.com or cell: 521-5899

[Zamboni]

Scooter, I have a pair of sky boots you can use. You can use them only if you bring back my helmet and rope you still have.

[tintanium]

Scooter - I've got some alpine crampons you can use and some boots that will fit them. The boots are about a size 10. Right now my car is pretty full, but it looks like Ryan might be driving down.

[buzzard]

was out on sunday, not bad till she started to break off. hope to get out again soon.

[Ryan_woods]

Scooter - I've got some alpine crampons you can use and some boots that will fit them. The boots are about a size 10. Right now my car is pretty full, but it looks like Ryan might be driving down.

If someone wants to let me know tomorow what time and maybe where to meet everyone I should have room for 3 as long as someone knows where were going

[Nette]

was out on sunday, not bad till she started to break off. hope to get out again soon.

what area is this?

[tintanium]

For all interested in ice climbing tomorrow, the plan is to meet at the Tim's in Wolfville at 8:00 and go on from there. Not sure just what we'll find, but that's the plan.

[Diamox]

With a cold week coming up... hopefully the ice will thick'in up a bit...

[Rich]

For those who know (Peter, Drohan, Eager, Kelley, others?):

What's the dilly with Moose River? How long is the hike? How much ice is there? Any pictures? Anybody have coordinates (I've heard it can be a biatch to find)? Directions?

So many questions...would appreciate any info you guys are willing to give up...

Cheers

Rich

[Rich]

Rich:

You'll find some pictures of Moose River if you search the old message - Mike and Conan/Eager posted some up - place looks pretty rad.

Conan also posted some sketchy directions - maybe he has some coordinates(?). Sounds like a 4x4 would be helpful...someone must have better directions for hiking in though...

Hope this helps

[Zamboni]

Ya, its a rad spot. There are two area's I know of.

First spot, you take a right off the main road up a large logging road, its the last one before you cross the river. It was a few years since I was there, but the telephone pole was flagged with orange tape right at its base. Once you pass a few different turns off the main branch we hung a left and parked the truck. Than bush-wacked a few min till we reach the top of the cliff and entered the gorge. The ice faces south and wasn't climbable when I was there.

Second spot, along the main road, cross the river and hang a right up a logging road up the side of a hill. I don't remember much of the drive as I thought we were all going to die ( thanks for not killing me eager ). We came to a "T" in the road, hung a left, than another left, than a right and rounded up to a clearing that was the highest point around. Parked the Jeep, and walked down a dirt road, hung a right at the bottom of it and bushed wacked down to the river. We ended up walking up river and found a thick wall in the woods.

Great spots supper quite, but way to much effort. If the bay of fundy has Ice, climb there. If not head to Moose river.

Good luck rich! Cell phone's don't work there so don't bother calling me.

If you want to swing by my place with a topout map, I might be more help.

Cb,

[Eager]

Ok,

I

Driving in would be sketchy unless your really prepared (4x4 with good clearance and snow tires)depending on snow conditions. The roads can turn to soup in the spring. Hiking is feasable but you'll probably want to camp or start really early. Unless you're into leading Grade 4+ to 5 that is really big your probably better climbing elsewhere. My advice is, go in the summer and explore around from both sides and get your bearings and figure out the place. Then plan for a trip a next year, otherwise you'll spend more time slogging than climbing probably, but if your in for a serious outing then by all means.............but I take no responsibility in providing this information. The Big Ice is at the bottom of the gorge on the river left side which means it would probably be easier to approach from the road on the other side of the river than the one marked, there are other opportunities all the way up the gorge. I've been trying to get around to doing a blog of some areas that are less well known, maybe I'll get around to it.

[Rich]

Many thanks fellarz - I'll let you know how it goes if I make it in.

Cheers

Rich

[Scooter]

Sunday or Monday anyone?