How to place bolts?

[C.Eager]

I think what Steve is getting at regarding projects is that different climbers have different ideas of how a route should go sport/trad/mixed. There are routes in NS that have been lead ground up with no cleaning. Just make sure you know who to ask before you decide whether or not the manky looking line your about to bolt hasn't already been lead. I think it's important to try and climb with a trad first mentality, then if it's definately a new line and not a mossed up classic from thirty years ago find the areas that provide absolutely no natural pro and depending on how bold you wish to climb, bolt away. Otherwise trad first. Just don't take for granted the fact that some people enjoy running it out.

[Stevo]

Hey Sean, all this talk of new routes is making my mouth water, how soon do yer want to start getting out?? I've been training on pints and I'm fat as a pig, so the sooner the better!

Steve

[The Mitt]

not this weekend but next. Is that good?

Sean

[mitchleblanc]

I don't know if anyone is actually talking about bolting anymore in this thread, but I would recommend that you go out and place a few in some rocks that aren't going to be seen or climbed on. It's good practice to use the drill before hand, because that heavy mofo can go in lop-sided pretty easily.

More advice? Choose a flat spot of rock to place the bolt.. there can't be any cracks around it either (you don't wanna pull the whole piece of rock off!) and I have used a hammer to flatten any nubs (haha nubbes) around the area, so I can get the hanger to lay nice and flat and not spin. I doubt this affects the strength of the bolt. The hangers are all "unidirectional" are they not (they have the same shape, there's no left and right hand hangers, I think?) so they should lay the way they hang, I think. On perfectly horizontal roofs you need to consider that a normal hanger might put leverage on the bolt, so there are hangers (I think) that are better for this.

I dunno, I could be all wrong, and I could be repeating, and I could be too late, but those are some of my tips for bolting! (Though I've rarely done it).

[mitchleblanc]

oh, and for the record, if I was still working a project, even after a year.. and I'd cleaned and bolted it.. (and it was flagged) and you sent it without asking me first... I would hunt you down and make you suffer. And literally make you pay for all my bolts and time.

[Stevo]

Mitt: Yeah lets make weekend after this one the first Stoners meet this year. Know any easy 5.5's to start on??

Chris E. : Hey I like your style, youre talking like a Brit, we have to team up for some trouser-filling classic thrutch routes. Actually I know just the route, an unclimbed overhanging 8-10 inch wide crack. Unprotected apart from a possible #6 cam placement about half way. Know anyone with a #6 Camalot??

Cheers
Steve

[C.Eager]

Looking forward to some gear this year. Hope to take on some of the classics. So where is this line you're talking about, Steve? We should definately hit the crag I'd be interested in checking out Bow wall sometime!

[Stevo]

This line is on an interesting, well featured little crag above Railway. I've done a couple of lines there, and there are maybe another 5 to do, plus lots of bouldering, including this possibly unique route. I say unique because it's maybe the only true gritstone style offwidth I have seen in Nova Scotia. Just waitin for this xxxxing snow to melt!

Cheers

[Fred]

go establish 20 routes and spend a $1000 on hardware and countless hours developing and then we'll talk about if you should send someone's project or not.

The rock is there and it's free to climb just like the trees are there and free to cut down but there is a certain level of climbing ethics involved.

[The Teth]

Steve, I am hoping to get out with you guys this spring. I have done about 12 routes in the 5.8 range, but I still consider myself an armature. It would be good for me to get out with some experienced Trad Climbers. For some of my Trad assents I had to teach my belay partner how to lead belay before I could climb.

The Teth