New Crag and a Fistful of New Routes

[Stevo]

Howe Crag
This is at the R side of the logging road, 10 min walk past Columbus and just before Howe Lake. There are two walls, the Left Wall facing south and overlooking the road, and the Right Wall facing east and running uphill at 90 degrees to the road. Hours of frenzied gardening activity produced the following five good quality routes described from left to right.

Juicy Lucy, 5.7/5.8 (S. Punshon, not seconded, 11th Nov)
The prominent hand/fist crack in the centre of the Left Wall. Climbed in running water, the start may unfortunately never be completely dry.

Black Dog, 5.9 (S. Punshon and S. Kelly, 4th Nov)
At the left end of the R Wall. Climb into a R facing dihedral and follow to a cave. Move R and climb the finger crack in the overhang to ledges. Finish up a pleasant corner.

Backdoor Man, 5.8 (P. McVey and T. Parker, 11th Nov)
About 4 metres R of Black Dog. Climb a crack to an overhang and step left into a great looking L facing dihedral which is climbed to the top

If Six Was Nine, 5.6 (S. Punshon and P. McVey, 22nd Oct)
The bulging hand/fist crack in the centre of the wall just R of the last route.

Blues for Stevie, 5.10b R (S. Punshon and S. Kelly, 4th Nov)
Just to the right of a green unclimbed vee-chimney is an incipient crackline. Good runner placement half way but then not much protection with the crux at the top.

Cheers
Steve

[peter]

And here is the kicker regarding access: entering as you would for Columbus, you will see the gate is tied open and the lock is missing. It has been this way consistently over several weeks, so you can drive to the crag, which is roadside. Parking for two cars just past the crag, which is 2.5 kms from the highway. Enjoy.

[Rich]

That must have taken a flowers load of cleaning - that was one dirty crag! Sound like cool routes.

[The Mitt]

I still have a project on it. Bit of a squeeze chimney. On the right hand side.

Mitt

[peter]

And Parker and I got out the canoe and found another, bigger, equally impressive crag (two, actually) yesterday, as well. Developments awaits the go ahead from our fearless leader.

[Nate]

how tall??

[Zamboni]

Who's been to columbus wall in the last few months? The Place is a mess, trees all over the place, moss covered cracks. Would anybody be up for a cleaning weekend in the spring?

Also, just past "First steps" everything has been clear cut, and another short wall is exposed. Behind this wall I noticed the top of another wall. Any parties heading out that way Monday? I never had a chance to make it to the bass and would like to check it out Tomorrow.

CB.

[The Mitt]

Can't make it monday.

Mitt

[waterat]

I still have a project on it. Bit of a squeeze chimney. On the right hand side.

Mitt

...is that a squeeze for everyone then ?.....ha ha ha ....

Glad to see Messrs Punshon & Kelly continue to push trad climbing in NS...let us all hope that subsequent ascents are done in the original style. Good effort, although you left it a bit late this year, hmmm?

[The Mitt]

It is a squeeze for me, for Conan it would be a bit wide, however I doubt you could even fit your head in

Mitt

[peter]

Replying to Nate, I would put Howe Crag at between 18 and 20 metres, and the new crag found, at around 25 metres.

[Rich]

So where is this new crag, pray tell?

[waterat]

In reply to the Mitten....good one !!....sharp as a tack still !...