Another major new route at Main Face

[Stevo]

Blue Remembered Hills 5.10a+ (S. Punshon and P. McVey, 22nd Sept 2006)

This is a fine mountaineering style route with great positions, requires competent leader and second.

Pitch 1, 10m 5.10a+ 5 m left of Out of the Doldrums is a thin overhanging crack. Climb the crack by fingerjamming and laybacking to a sloping overhung ledge. In the wall above is a fingerhold. Use this to gain a good handhold, then climb up on better holds to a small footledge. A competent leader should be able to arrange an adequate belay on various nuts and cams, with a #2 Friend being particularly useful for a shallow crack on the right.
Note: a #1 RP was preplaced in the overhanging wall to protect the move up off the sloping ledge. Exercise caution as these babies can snap at relatively low shock loads.

Pitch 2. 30m 5.8 Move up and right to join Out of the Doldrums and follow this almost to the roof. Step down and make a long traverse to the right on good finger holds to join Itchy and Scratchy at the crux. Finish up this.

"What are those blue remembered hills,
What spires, what farms are those?"
A.E. Housman

[Nate]

Wow, sounds awesome. Good job guys!

Nate

[peter]

Now, I specifically said to Steve, that the route description must state that it requires both competence AND strong sphincer muscles. How did he leave that out?

All the credit goes solely to Steve on this one, though he was kept on an excellent belay at all times ...

[Stevo]

Should also have mentioned that the #1 RP has been left in situ for anyone else wishing to do the route, so please don't take it for booty, well do you want anything on your rack that snaps at a measly 3 kN?

[Stevo]

Here are some pictures from that day including Peter leading a 5.8 alpine style. Now then lads, please don't fight over who gets the second ascent lol!






Cheers
Steve

[Fred]

I hope those are twins and not singles?

[peter]

Nice pics!

Peter

_____________________

"Only lycra pants whimps climb without packs and boots."
- George Mallory

[The Teth]

Mind if I include one of the above photos with the route description in the CNS Newsletter?

Teth

[The Mitt]

What route is Peter on?

Mitt

[Stevo]

I believe that is the second pitch of Direct Line 5.8. Peter pulled off a very impressive lead in boots and sac Don Whillans style. I was all on seconding with my bendy boots and bag.

Teth- use what you like, I can email you something at better resolution if you want.

Steve

[peter]

Yes, it was "Directline" above the first big ledge, during the short period of time that I was still smiling. The problem with slightly overhanging off-widths and backpacks is, well, they don't mix, but hiking boots never hurt.

Pete

-- "If you climb like Whillans, and drink like Whillans, you will die in bed like Whillans."

[Fred]

you guys didn't answer my question whether the ropes are twins or singles

[Stevo]

Its a 60m 8.6 mm half rope doubled.

Steve

[Stevo]

So neither twin or single!

[Fred]

Then realy it's doubles.

The reason I was asking is... by clipping both ropes into your gear as you are, you can dramaticaly increase the force on your gear. Two singles results in higher force than one 10.5mm rope.

FYI

[Stevo]

Thanks, but I am extremely well aquainted in double (or half) rope techniqe, having climbed almost exclusively on double ropes for over 25 years. Double rope technique is the norm in Britain and commonplace in Europe and has considerable advantages over single rope technique particularly for trad climbing and mountaineering.

In circumstances where the route is not meandering, and where the gear placements are good, then it is perfectly good technique to clip both ropes into one piece. I think you will find that this is endorsed by European rope manufacturers. Where the placements are marginal, then of course alternate clipping is better, as is sensible alternate or otherwise clipping to reduce rope drag on wandering lines.

Steve

[Fred]

sorry. Was not trying to question your judgement.

The reason I asked was because you said "Peter sent it alpine style". I was wondering if you were refering to twin ropes (re: photo). But in your latest post I realize you meant because he climbed it in his boots.

climb on

[The Teth]

Well, Fred may have been telling Stevo something he already knew, but I learned from both post and response, so thanks guys.

Teth

[granite_grrl]

Got my doubles last xmas, and I didn't get as much use out of them as I thought I would (on rock at least). If you have a pitch that really wanders they are fantastic, but I've found most places (esp if you're doing shorter pitches) don't wander enough to warrent them. We broutght them up Solar Slab last winter at Red Rocks and it would have been as easy, or easier to trail a second line. But in places that you have to use two ropes to rap its kinda nice that you have two lighter ropes than a heavier lead line and a second line.

The biggest advantage I've found while on rock is the reduction in rope drag, but 90% of the time it's really not a problem with a single line. Those times it is its really nice to have though.

[The Mitt]

Topic spilt for continuity.

Mitt