Trad climbing course

It’s sharp....really sharp!

Moderators: chossmonkey, Dom, granite_grrl, peter, Climb Nova Scotia, Matt Peck

Postby jeremy » Sat Feb 18, 2006 1:34 pm

WOW things and attitudes have changed since I learned to climb! Insurance??? what???? You want to learn trad, buy a rack/rope/books, find someone who has lots of experience, buy them a six pack, offer to drive to the crag and get mileage seconding them. Get them to explain their anchors and anything else you are wondering about. Use YOUR common sence, if something looks dangerous don't do it. In my opinion a day course will not teach you much more (maybe less) than a weekend seconding a good leader on mulitpitch. Once you have experience seconding (could be a weekend or a year) try leading some easy climbs that you have wired. Ask your experienced partner how your placements were. If anyone wants to hook up this spring in halifax I'll gladly go out with you, or hook up for a group trip for some multi pitch in welsford. I'm sure we could round up some guys from NB to join us.

jeremy
User avatar
jeremy
 
Posts: 187
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2004 5:33 pm
Location: oromocto NB

Postby seanT » Mon Feb 20, 2006 12:02 pm

sounds great are you insured?just kidding...Best post in this thread so far J! Right on the money(no pun intended).
All aspiring trad leaders ...go out. get some! Be patient. Make sound descisions. End of story.
seanT
 
Posts: 505
Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2005 8:39 am

Postby martha » Mon Feb 20, 2006 1:17 pm

jeremy wrote:WOW things and attitudes have changed since I learned to climb! Insurance??? what???? You want to learn trad, buy a rack/rope/books, find someone who has lots of experience, buy them a six pack, offer to drive to the crag and get mileage seconding them. Get them to explain their anchors and anything else you are wondering about. Use YOUR common sence, if something looks dangerous don't do it. In my opinion a day course will not teach you much more (maybe less) than a weekend seconding a good leader on mulitpitch. Once you have experience seconding (could be a weekend or a year) try leading some easy climbs that you have wired. Ask your experienced partner how your placements were. If anyone wants to hook up this spring in halifax I'll gladly go out with you, or hook up for a group trip for some multi pitch in welsford. I'm sure we could round up some guys from NB to join us.

jeremy


that is just what I was saying all along... You got it Jeremy! For sure we'd join you in Welsford!
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....

Postby MarkR » Mon Feb 20, 2006 2:12 pm

A few points about Jeremy's generally fine post...
A key part of making it work is the the bit about having the knowledge to know if something is safe, as implied in the bit about "books".
Just because someone is "experienced" doesn't mean that they are safe, they could just be lucky (especially if their experience includes lots of "epics")...
See earlier post about assumption...
Experience also doesn't mean that someone is good at teaching and can explain "why" which is a necessary component of future decision making.
Following leaders up trad climbs is a fine thing to do and it certainly gets me on climbs I wouldn't otherwise do, but my background knowledge allows me to make sound (sometimes...) decisions about how safe that person is and whether I should keep climbing with them.
A good course is an excellent way to get that background knowledge. Follow it up by climbing with good, experienced climbers.
In a nut shell, get knowledge (somehow), hang with trad climbers (nowadays most of them don't smell too bad), and, as Jeremy said, use common sense.
Oh yeah, don't forget to have fun!
MarkR
 
Posts: 20
Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2006 2:29 pm
Location: Antigonish-ish

Postby The Teth » Mon Feb 20, 2006 4:10 pm

The Mitt’s sputtering indignation aside, I agree 100% with John Bowle’s post. He summed the situation up very well. My completely uninformed rant stemmed from my concern that unfounded lawsuits might destroy Canadian society as it has done in the states (but this is mostly fear based on ignorance as I have not taken the time research the differences between Canadian and US law), and secondly from my resentment over not being able to get any experienced trad climbers to show me the ropes when I was trying to learn trad.

The Teth
User avatar
The Teth
 
Posts: 453
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 1:01 pm
Location: Halifax

Postby The Mitt » Tue Feb 21, 2006 4:30 am

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Mitt
User avatar
The Mitt
 
Posts: 847
Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2004 5:22 pm
Location: Prospect NS

Postby chameleon » Tue Feb 21, 2006 8:37 am

Wipe your face Mitt! :D
User avatar
chameleon
 
Posts: 444
Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 4:41 pm
Location: Halifax

Postby The Teth » Tue Feb 21, 2006 2:43 pm

I should probably give props to The Mitt, Stevo, and the boys for this Stoners thing. It’s a great way for new trad climbers to spend time at the cliff with those more hardened veterans. I hope I have time to get out with you guys this year. I also hope for less precipitation in 2006.

The Teth
User avatar
The Teth
 
Posts: 453
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 1:01 pm
Location: Halifax

Postby chameleon » Wed Feb 22, 2006 8:53 am

Mitt may be a veteran, but I don't know about "hardened"....."softish" perhaps.


(please don't flame me Sean-o) :)

S
User avatar
chameleon
 
Posts: 444
Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 4:41 pm
Location: Halifax

Postby mike » Wed Feb 22, 2006 11:53 am

and the gloves come off.........
User avatar
mike
 
Posts: 479
Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2005 4:24 pm

Postby Zamboni » Wed Feb 22, 2006 9:42 pm

Hey Cas, simmer down there old man!

Conan
User avatar
Zamboni
 
Posts: 935
Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2004 8:59 pm
Location: Halifax

Postby The Mitt » Thu Feb 23, 2006 3:36 am

The world is comming to an end I am getting flamed by the rock dancer. Chameleon aka tinkerbell Cassinador :lol:

Mitt
At sea with nothing to climb but into my bed
User avatar
The Mitt
 
Posts: 847
Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2004 5:22 pm
Location: Prospect NS

Postby Zamboni » Thu Feb 23, 2006 8:23 am

hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahah. Must be all that foot faggatry beta of yours Cas!
User avatar
Zamboni
 
Posts: 935
Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2004 8:59 pm
Location: Halifax

Postby chameleon » Thu Feb 23, 2006 8:41 am

Are you making fun of my pink ice climbing boots?

- Tinkerbell is NOT amused :evil:
User avatar
chameleon
 
Posts: 444
Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 4:41 pm
Location: Halifax

Postby Zamboni » Thu Feb 23, 2006 10:43 am

I'll be good! :roll:
User avatar
Zamboni
 
Posts: 935
Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2004 8:59 pm
Location: Halifax

Previous

Return to Nova Scotia

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 70 guests

cron