Ice Routes

[william]

For all you Nova Scotians and New Brunswickers who might contemplate coming to the rock for ice, here is a little more info for you.

Firstly, this is a route just off the Springdale turnoff west of Grand Falls, in the town of Rattling Brook just past Kings Point. Good camping across the road and the locals are always interested!

Local Celebrity: WI 4+, 110m
Pillar on left side of rattling brook gulley. Beware debatable snow bridges in the gulley.
Pitch 1: 35m WI 4+. Vertical ice with small overhangs. Set a hanging belay on screws or v-threads to one side of the ice chute of death.
Pitch 2: 40m WI 3. Medium angle ice with vertical sections. Steeper than it looks, with snowy sections, challenging. Trend right towards trees, if not be prepared for snow slope with no pro.
Pitch 3: 35m WI 3+. Snowy gully with some small ice walls
Pitch 4: 70+m WI 3. Small ice walls and slopes, free solo to top and 15min hike to ridge
Rap off top of pitch 2 from trees on RH side, two 70's will make it down with rope stretch

Anyone looking for good ice on the west coast, gros morne! Ten Mile Pond and Bakers Brook Pond have enough ice to keep you occupied for weeks. Best option is to snow mobile in daily or camp along the lake. Get in touch with the fisherman's landing restaurant/inn to arrange a sled ride. Otherwise its 15k minimum.
Large amounts of ice west of Cornerbrook as well in frenchmans, lark and coxs coves. Also check out Trout River and the towns on the way there. There are flows in each town past woody point, mostly 1-2 pitch WI4's
Ice was climbable around christmas and is just starting to leave.
If anybody is planning a trip or has questions check out the Facebook page, "climb newfoundland discussion"
Tried to attach pics, but they're too big, see the facebook page

[Jamesk]

Have any pictures?