New line on Minkey

[Shawn B]

New line on Minkey.
A totally independant middle section which climbs the face between Warm & Sultry and Human Eraser. Route finding is somewhat contrived as it goes back and forth between the two lines on each side. The moves are very nice however and does not use any holds from climbs on either side through the guts of the climb. Climb has been mostly cleaned but is still a bit dirty in places. Some crumbly foot holds if you veer off the intended line. Also, top finger traverse back into Human Eraser hasn't been scrubed yet. I thought it was going to be pretty easy climbing but it had a bigger sting than expected which was quite exciting as it was still very dirty. Should be quite nice once (if) it sees some traffic. Probably should settle out in the 10b or c range once route is cleaner. Be careful with some gear placements due to crystals within the placements. Medium/large nuts and small/med cams to #1 camalot. I used tripple of both .5 camalot size and green alien/#1 tcu size.

"Cry of the Redtail" 5.10 PG 100'
Climb the first 15 feet of Warm and Sultry. Instead of traversing right into the finger crack, climb straight up on flakes, discontinuous cracks and horizontals. From a small alcove above a slippery mantle (at approx 2/3rds height), climb up and finger traverse left to join the last 15 feet of Human Eraser (just above the crux). Steep sustained climbing with pumpy gear placements.
FA S. Bethune Sept25/05

[Fred]

I've updated the new routes info on my website. Please verify that the details are ok.

I also updated FFA of "Dueling Fools", Steve Adamson's new route on Border Wall and removed "What's a Paragraph" since it was previously done.