New variation

[Fred]

New variation to About A Rope. Start 15 left of the original start and climb straight up. This route connects with About A Rope directly below the crux.


no gear for first 30ft and then nice gear and layback flake just below the About a Rope Traverse that leads to the crux. 5.7ish climbing (R)

[mathieu]

So that makes it a V1? Isn't V1 equivalent to 10+

[Fred]

depends if ur wearing Prana or not

[Shawn B]

This has been done before. Multiple times I would guess. I remember the first time I did it thinking it was not done before. Can't remember who. Was graded 5.6. I'm sure there are a number of ways you can wander up that. I remember nice climbing but some of the flakes being a little suspect. They were pretty hollow...and pretty large. Did you start right in the corner where you can scramble up to Minkey or further left of that?

[Fred]

yeah you start right in the corner where you can climb up to Minkey. It goes straight up. Then about 30ft off the deck there is a large left facing corner which turn into a small hollow flake at teh top. We both cranked on it and it seemed ok for pulling anyways. Anywho. Just a fun little variation if ur looking for something different. Cheers!

[Stef]

Rob and I scrubbed and climbed this yeasterday thinking we were bagging an FA... Damn it...show'd have known better. Anyway the direct way is nice and clean now. Nice climbing, but the pro sucks. The lower crux isn't protected at all.

Cheers,

Stef

[Fred]

Rob and I scrubbed and climbed this yeasterday thinking we were bagging an FA... Damn it...show'd have known better. Anyway the direct way is nice and clean now. Nice climbing, but the pro sucks. The lower crux isn't protected at all.

Cheers,

Stef

Yeah I didn't find much pro untill I got under that left facing corner. Then good pro in the corner. And I remember correctly there was a thin suspect flake at the top of that corner? Is this the route you took?

[Stef]

Yup, from the ledge above the corner at the left end of pyramid. I went straight up a crack to the top of a big free-standing block. Then up a nice curving rail and flakes (crux) to the left-facing corner with a thin flake at the top. I really reefed on that thin flake on rap, I don't think it is going anywhere. Nice route, but bad fall potential as there is nothing to stop you from hitting the free standing block if you come off.

[Fred]

It's an interesting variation to "About A Rope" for sure. I found the gear to be good once you get to the left facing corner/flake system. Although Shawn says this variation has been done before I don't know how they placed gear since I cleaned the crack out for the first time this summer. There is no way you could have placed gear in it before the cleaning. I suspect he trended right at that flake/corner to meet up with "About A Rope" somewhere below the traverse.

This variation meets up directly down and left of the crux of "About A Rope" literaly.