Cheeckbone
-Smoking Crack
-Whiter Shade of Pale (stout 5.6 more like 5.
-Dynamic Duo (easy for a 5.9 and well protected with clean falls)
-Spiderman (definitely not R rated as the guidebook says)
-Tut's Tomb (scope out gear first)
-Shreaded Wheat (go up and right to clip the bolt then come back and do the route straight on. You'll know what I mean when you get there)
-Warm and Sultry (stout lead and crux is a bit intimidating because you are past your last piece by about 4-5 ft but the fall is clean and gear is bomber)
You should get into leading more of the difficult mixed climbs like (Joint Venture, Talasmasaca, Witches, D-day, The Waltz) and that will help you out a lot when it comes to getting on full gear routes. Most of them offer the safety of bolts through the hard sections.
Routes I would avoid:
- Curried Recollection (death route and total sandbag)
- Pad de Deux (tough for it's grade and gear is tricky)
- Telefunken (scary and sketchy gear in mid section)
- Trundling (well... you know why LOL)