Bullwhip Days rappel situation

[theriault]

I did this route for the first time yesterday ( Awesome route... Dom I hope you gave this one stars in the new GB!) and belayed my second from the top. When we had to rappel down to either the Waterwalk anchor or the recently moved anchor at the base of Astroboy Direct its was a dangerous affaire... you either had to do a traverse/pendulum on a blank face or scramble to the ledge of Waterwalk while holding your rap line.... quite the undertaking haha. I did noticed where the Astroboy Direct anchor used to be... that would have been the perfect spot for a rap station.... When I climb Astroboy Direct I always use the super comfy anchor on the big ledge on top of Waterwalk. Well what im getting to with all this is ; does anyone use the Astroboy Direct anchor ? In my mind it would be more useful at its original location now that Bullwhip Days is an active line....I would be willing to do the work and supply the hardware needed.

I would like the community's feedback on this plz

PS Good job Adam and Dom for cleaning/bolting this route, great addition to an already great wall!!!

[cory]

I used it two out of three visits to the ledge this year, (when continuing up Astroboy, and again on the rap). Mostly due to congestion that occurs at the ledge. There were three parties (7 climbers) wanting to use the Waterwalk anchor.

The primary problem with the original placement was that is was nearly a hanging belay, off-of-plumb, and with a ramp/slab on-plumb, so if you missed the anchor you'd quickly swing back into the slab. It sounds like there is now a similar problem coming down Bullwhip. If I'm picturing it accurately, with Bullwhip, if you miss the anchor you'll swing back into space, rather than collide with the slab. Right?

I don't have an opinion nor a possible solution for you at this time, but you asked if anyone uses the rap station and for feedback, so there you have it.

[Dom]

Not sure with a 60 but with a 70 you can reach the ground from the Bullwhip days anchor.



Marty, not sure it would be worth moving that anchor again. I would hold off and maybe add another anchor 15 ft below. That would give us the possibility of doing Bullwhip Days Direct- probably 5.12+ on that blank start.

Thoughts?

[theriault]

Marty, not sure it would be worth moving that anchor again. I would hold off and maybe add another anchor 15 ft below. That would give us the possibility of doing Bullwhip Days Direct- probably 5.12+ on that blank start.

Thoughts?

Good call, I know we had already discuss the direct start! the lower anchor would work for both routes.... "2 birds getting stoned at once"