Cleaning near Comrades in Destiny

[*Chris*]

Someone has unearthed another quality crack line just right of Comrades in Destiny. The line shares belay trees but is otherwise completely independent. It's got a few exciting moves up a dike after the crack tapers out. Thanks to the person who cleaned this pitch. It's quite good and looks like it would have required a lot of scrubbing. Does it have a name?

[Leehammer]

I assume viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7309 is what you are referring to?

[Greg]

Yes I agree Chris it is a nice line. It caught my eye when I was doing some work cleaning up Springfield and Comrades. I dug the dirt out of two stellar crack systems and did some scrubbing. That was back in mid April. I ran out of time and couldn't finish the cleaning on the bottom third of the crack system on the left. Stacey gave me a belay so I could sus it out for gear and grade but I didn't think it was clean or dry enough for a ground up lead at that time. I am guessing the next couple of rains washed it clean and it looked appealing enough for you to lead it. It certainly has some nice tasty stone. I headed back yesterday finished the job and then we climbed it ground up but it looks like you have the ffa. Congrats. I can't fault you for recognizing a nice route and wanting to send it. Good on ya. I wasn't quite sure what was going to become of the second crack to the right but yesterday I did a little more work and unearthed another quality route. Stacey and I got the ffa on the second one yesterday. The bottom line and most important thing is there is more nice rock for all to climb.
Cheers, Greg

[*Chris*]

Ok... so I guess I'm caught red-handed here. After talking to Greg a bit privately it seems as if I nabbed his FFA by about 12 hours. Honestly, it was this really enticing clean crack when I stumbled across it so I never imaged that someone wouldn't have jumped on it beforehand. It just looked too good. Greg figures that I should name it... so here goes:

Partners in Crime. 5.8 PG (T) 60'
FA: Greg & Stacey Hughes
FFA: Chris Norfolk & Jon Corey

At the far left end of Lower Dawn Wall cross a bridge and belay at a tree shared with Comrades In Destiny. Climb the right-hand crack system up to small ledge and past a cool undercling. As the crack thins to a dike make a few thoughtful moves aiming for a large dead tree. Traverse left here and merge with Comrades for a final few moves. This line was uncovered and cleaned by the FA party and later poached by two unknowing crooks.

Greg mentioned to me that he might bolt an anchor to make it completely independent. I think the dike should stay as is, however. After-all... this is Cochrane lane.

[Dom]

Good work, this reminds me, I climbed a line last Fall to the left of Interzone. Upon my arrival back home I realized that this line was unrecorded. Had this line been climbed free before? It would be a nice 5.8, 5.9 hand crack sequence directly left of Interzone that finishes on the Chunky Chunky anchor. It is a fine line and whoever did the cleaning deserves credit.

[Jon Corey]

Dom it sounds like one Ben T and I spent some time cleaning last spring.
it was such an obvious line I'm sure it had been climbed before.
Greg sorry we poached your route.

[Greg]

Here is the second route new route found at the left end of Dawn Wall. I plan on going back to give it some polish and work on the anchor.

TAKEN FOR GRANITE 5.6 G 50' / N / T
FA: G. Hughes, S. Hughes 2012.05.07
FFA: G. Hughes, S. Hughes 2012.05.07
At the left end of Dawn Wall are two vertical crack systems above the log bridge leading to Comrades in Destiny. Climb the hand/finger crack system on the right. Near the top of the wall the crack merges slightly right and finishes up a chimney/dike system.

[Greg]

Ok... so I guess I'm caught red-handed here. After talking to Greg a bit privately it seems as if I nabbed his FFA by about 12 hours. Honestly, it was this really enticing clean crack when I stumbled across it so I never imaged that someone wouldn't have jumped on it beforehand. It just looked too good. Greg figures that I should name it... so here goes:

Partners in Crime. 5.8 PG (T) 60'
FA: Greg & Stacey Hughes
FFA: Chris Norfolk & Jon Corey

At the far left end of Lower Dawn Wall cross a bridge and belay at a tree shared with Comrades In Destiny. Climb the right-hand crack system up to small ledge and past a cool undercling. As the crack thins to a dike make a few thoughtful moves aiming for a large dead tree. Traverse left here and merge with Comrades for a final few moves. This line was uncovered and cleaned by the FA party and later poached by two unknowing crooks.

Greg mentioned to me that he might bolt an anchor to make it completely independent. I think the dike should stay as is, however. After-all... this is Cochrane lane.

Here are some pics of this route.....

[Dom]

Dom it sounds like one Ben T and I spent some time cleaning last spring.
it was such an obvious line I'm sure it had been climbed before.
Greg sorry we poached your route.

You guys cleaned the hand crack very well. Did you have any name in mind? We should add it to the new routes list. If it's not reported I have a feeling it won't see any traffic and will become a jungle again.

[Dom]

FA: Greg & Stacey Hughes
FFA: Chris Norfolk & Jon Corey

At the far left end of Lower Dawn Wall cross a bridge and belay at a tree shared with Comrades In Destiny. Climb the right-hand crack system up to small ledge and past a cool undercling. As the crack thins to a dike make a few thoughtful moves aiming for a large dead tree. Traverse left here and merge with Comrades for a final few moves. This line was uncovered and cleaned by the FA party and later poached by two unknowing crooks.

Greg mentioned to me that he might bolt an anchor to make it completely independent. I think the dike should stay as is, however. After-all... this is Cochrane lane.

Had the chance to hop on it this weekend. Cool route with really good gear at the bottom on beautiful rock and a bit of a spicy crux above your gear at the top. Perfect amount of spice. 2 star route on a 3 star scale. Good addition to the crag Greg. Next time I'll hop on Taken for granite.

[*Chris*]

I climbed Taken for Granite yesterday with Sonia. It was cool. Next time I'm there I'll do a bit of scrubbing in the chimney for you Greg. Maybe that will make amends for my transgressions. Partners in Crime is the better of the two new lines and climbed together with Comrades makes this a nice spot.