Airport Cliffs potential and help

[RedStripe]

Was out climbing (recon) with a friend today at the cliffs coming from the SJ airport to Quispamsis. (N 45 20.898' W 065 54.646')
Does anyone have any info on this place? There was one standing route and another that had been chopped. But there's TONS of potential.
The two of us really want to start developing. It's a sweet spot close to home.

Took some pics toto show just some of the routes were going to be looking at.
Green= Bolted route (blue circle= chopped bolt)
Red= Potential route Yellow= boulder prob.

[RedStripe]

more routes

[*Chris*]

They've caught the attention of others before... here's the discussion last time they came up... 7 years ago now!

Old Thread!

[RedStripe]

Thanks for the link Chris.

I read the thread and maybe some things have changed since then(?)
- There's no rap rings, but there IS a perfectly good tree (but it's way back from the cliff edge: Use judgement)
- There weren't any "no trespassing" signs, so maybe it's ok to go through(?) It definetley looks like people have been up there recently and there's lots of snowmobile tracks on the logging trail.

Trad climbing would for sure be an option.
Just a heads up to anyone wanting to go. A porcupine seems to have made the place his home under the cliff about 20ft from the boulder problems.

Any more info on the place would be great.
Also, an info on whether or not Bob is still the owner.
Thanks

[cory]

From what I remember the rock quality is as mediocre as Hampton/Kingston (ie perpetual flakes).
Also close by, but larger, and possibly higher quality rock is this place:

http://maps.google.ca/maps/ms?msid=2162 ... 8,0.017703

I think it has more potential for development. Inquire about land ownership before fixing any gear anywhere.

[cory]

here's a bird's eye view:
http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&cp=rjnnhj ... orm=LMLTCC

[john]

I climbed there in the late 90s I recall the cave underneath had literally 1ft of animal flowers in it?

[coryhal]

i think steve adamson and friends bolted that line years ago... like early 90's. The rock is bad, probably why it's not climbed anymore. As for the cliff in by glen falls, it does have some height but is super low angle... verry, verry easy climbs.

imo, the best undeveloped cliffs around sj are, ministers face, the rock is actually pretty good, and the upper cliff at hampton marsh. this thing is well over 100 feet and steep, it could have some of the best sport routes in nb with alot of work.

[RedStripe]

I climbed there in the late 90s I recall the cave underneath had literally 1ft of animal flowers in it?

Ha ya. That's pretty accurate. It's far back and out of the way though. At least the porcupine is neat and organized.

I rappelled down the face. The rock didn't seem too bad. For sure climbable, with minimal flakes. I would say worth the trip if you're in the area.

[STeveA]

The rock quality is not bad. The holds are sharp, but tend to stay in place. There were no rap anchors, but there should be a bolt at the top just below the lip. We backed this up with a nut to make anchors, rather than using the tree. Peter Oxly? bolted the routes, but the bolts were not well located. The climbs are good, but only if you ignore the bolts. We never had any problems with the land owner, however I do believe it is on private property.