Quebec Climbers Coming Next Week...

[bobmirko]

Hi,

I will come to NB next week for climbing with my GF and I will appreciate your help in order to find the best spots for our grade of climbing.

I plan to buy the NB Climbing Guide but I can't have it in hands right now due to postal delay...

So, what is the best spots that worth to climb on in NB with camping not too far from them and maybe a small river or lake?
Also, do you have route recommandations for trad (up to 5. and sport (up to 5.10)?
How the bugs situation in NB right now?

Thanks a lot in advance and sorry for my bad english...

[bobmirko]

trad up to 5.8

[Dom]

Salut Bob, si tu veux je peux te donner plein d'info par courriel.

Le mien est dominic.caron4 at gmail.com

Happy to see you're interested to climb in NB.

[Fred]

The best climbing is at Cochrane Lane in Welsford where you will find an abundance of routes in your range. Most of the climbing is trad with a few mixed and sport routes but they tend to be of harder grades. There are also several walls than can easily be toproped if you want something a bit harder. If you like sport climbing there is a nice little crag in Welsford called Sunnyside which is 5min down the road going towards Fredericton. Print off the "New Routes" list on this forum to go with your guidbook since there are many new lines since the guidebook was published.

Some route recommendations for you at Cochrane Lane:

Reindeer Land 5.5
Golum's Cave 5.9
Pass The Moonshine 5.7
About A Rope 5.7+
Comrads In Destiny 5.6
Whiter Shade of Pale 5.8
Waterwalk 5.8 link to Astroboy 5.9
Snakepeel 5.7
It's A Way of Life 5.4

Great free camping at the back of the farmer's field at Cochrane Lane trailhead. No fires and no services but it's a beautiful spot. Camp at Cochrane Lane even if you plan to also climb at Sunnyside.

I've swam in the Nerepis river at Cochrane Lane many times and it's decent. Just as you come onto Cochrane Lane, park at the bridge where it crosses the Nerepis River and swim there.

Bonne chance!

Fred

[Fred]

If you climb 5.10 sport I recommend also checking out:

Drytoolers Will Be Prosecuted 5.10c
Goo-Ni-Goo-Goo 5.6

both routes are found on Waterfall Wall.

cheers