by max » Fri Feb 05, 2010 4:25 pm
got out to dorchester today.... got in one fun lead. If you have Joe's new ice guide the first route in dorchester is Hollow Curtain which isn't touching down. Everything else is in thick!! there is the potential for 4 other lines between Hollow Curtain and Unnamed #3. 1 being a steep slightly overhanging Pillar WI5/6 15m rap on V thread, 2 being a thin vertical flow very narrow at the bottom and very sustained 15m, 3 a variety of starts from WI2-WI3+ to a ledge then up the just off vertical ice to a few metre's on dry tooling to tree's WI4 25m, 4 being a gem if it gets climbed.... I think this would go in 2 pitches: start up Unnamed #3 and then when at the first sloping ice rail traverse right for 10+m to an impressive pillar, set anchor here, and climb died vertical ice for 20m, I think would be a solid WI5/6 route. I haven't seen these routes form at dorchester before not saying they haven't formed or been climbed in the past but I just have a feeling they haven't. I am going to try and post some pic's.
going to cape maringouin tomorrow should be another good day!