The State of the Bolts in Welsford

[Peabody]

I rebolted Reno Dihedro on Minkey on Friday. The old bolts from the 90s were rusted in some cases up to a third of the diameter. It didn't take much effort to snap some of them off with a wrench. This wasn't encouraging as these old bolts are all over the cliffs and on some popular routes. Unfortunately I'm moving out west and can't continue fixing this problem but if anyone has the time a mass retro is overdue. Here are just a few routes that desperately need new bolts: Telefunken, Stickfy Fingers, Granpa's demise, the rap anchor on flight of the Valkries (frigging dodgy!), Leviathan, the list goes on.

[Adam]

the rap anchor on flight of the Valkries

/agreed

[Dom]

I rebolted Reno Dihedro on Minkey on Friday.

Amazing route now that it's been retrobolted and cleaned.

Well done to ''revive'' this route Dave, thanks!

You guys should get on it!

[GKelly]

Dave, To remove the old bolts are you simply torquing the heck out of them?

[Fred]

Dave, To remove the old bolts are you simply torquing the heck out of them?

That's the first and easiest way to break off old bolts. Just keep tightening until they snap off.

If that fails, try removing the nut then pound the stud back and forth until it breaks off. Kinda like breaking a paper clip after bending it back and forth several times. And yes, it will break at the rock surface.

Hope this helps.

[Adam]

The bolts on telefunken are probably about ready to be replaced.

Cool line and pretty dirty at the top but fun climbing!

[Fred]

When was the last time you climbed Telefunken? Apparently Dom gave the top a bit of scrub last time he was on it (two weeks ago if I recall).

[Dom]

When was the last time you climbed Telefunken? Apparently Dom gave the top a bit of scrub last time he was on it (two weeks ago if I recall).

I did. The top was COVERED with lichen. It was hard to tell where to go when I was up there because most cracks were hidden under the the moss and lichen.
I spent about an hour cleaning the whole route and I agree that it does require more time to clean it thoroughly. If you think the top was dirty you should have seen the bottom!! It still is dirty but not as much...

Adam did you use the webbing/rap rings on the birch tree up there? Anyways Peabody and I put that up there so it's new...

Also, how did you find the protection after the bolts? That flake sounds hollow doesn't it? a fall from there would not be pretty... If the bolts were replaced , and an extra bolt was placed around that flake maybe it would get more traffic... my 2cents anyways it's still a great route right now!
Ohh yeah and I love the old school 5.10a rating on it...hehe

[Adam]

When was the last time you climbed Telefunken? Apparently Dom gave the top a bit of scrub last time he was on it (two weeks ago if I recall).

I did. The top was COVERED with lichen. It was hard to tell where to go when I was up there because most cracks were hidden under the the moss and lichen.
I spent about an hour cleaning the whole route and I agree that it does require more time to clean it thoroughly. If you think the top was dirty you should have seen the bottom!! It still is dirty but not as much...

Adam did you use the webbing/rap rings on the birch tree up there? Anyways Peabody and I put that up there so it's new...

Also, how did you find the protection after the bolts? That flake sounds hollow doesn't it? a fall from there would not be pretty... If the bolts were replaced , and an extra bolt was placed around that flake maybe it would get more traffic... my 2cents anyways it's still a great route right now!
Ohh yeah and I love the old school 5.10a rating on it...hehe

yah someone had mentioned you had cleaned it, and if you had, then holy crap it musta been uber dirty before you did the bottom was not too bad as all the key holds were clean but up top where the climbing gets a little easier and the gear a little further apart there is still lots of lichen.

I actually traversed to the gumby roof anchor as i knew i could reach the ground in one rap from there. friggin fun climbing tho gotta say. i found the gear to be passable above the bolted section. just had to work for it in spots.

and yeah, 5.10a old school i'd agree.

[Adam]

.... and to add... i was looking at arachnaphobia while climbing telefunken, and it looks far too dirty to ever get an ascent these days... when was the last time someone was on this? also i haven't climbed it yet but looking at the rock quality down low... looks pretty nasty.

I'm thinking we should get a day organized where everyone picks a route and gives it a good scrub. if we could get 20 people in on this a lot of routes that are getting passed over due to moss/lichen would prob start seeing ascents again.

[martha]

.
I'm thinking we should get a day organized where everyone picks a route and gives it a good scrub. if we could get 20 people in on this a lot of routes that are getting passed over due to moss/lichen would prob start seeing ascents again.

I'm in and I'm sure Fred and I can get a sitter. Welsford needs this. we could finish up with camping in the field.

[Adam]

ok maybe the club can supply the brushes!!! hint hint exec

[Dom]

sign me up!

[STeveA]

.... and to add... i was looking at arachnaphobia while climbing telefunken, and it looks far too dirty to ever get an ascent these days... when was the last time someone was on this? also i haven't climbed it yet but looking at the rock quality down low... looks pretty nasty.

I climbed this route shortly after it was first put up. The rock was/is bad and with only 1 bolt it is dicey. It was not a good route when first established and is deservedly neglected.

[Adam]

I climbed this route shortly after it was first put up. The rock was/is bad and with only 1 bolt it is dicey. It was not a good route when first established and is deservedly neglected.

The top of it looks pretty nice with that dihedral. Steve did you feel it was the rock quality holding this route back or just not nice climbing? Worth resurrecting?

[Shawn B]

I'll ditto Steve's comments...deservedly neglected. Climbed it once...that's enough. It does look nice from the ground but its not. IMO time better spent on a nice route or a new route if you are looking to add to quality climbing.

Speaking of bolts, anyone been on Joint Venture and 847 lately? How are those bolts looking? I remember them being a bit weathered a few years ago even. JV is the best sport route in NB and one of my top 5 in Welsford.

[Adam]

JV is the best sport route in NB and one of my top 5 in Welsford.

have you been on Scurvy? hehe

ok i'll forget arachnophobia then.

[Shawn B]

Ok...sorry...best sport route in NB that "I" can climb.

[STeveA]

I remember Arachnophobia as being forgettable. However that was many years ago. It might be worth investigating if you are looking for something to do.