Cliff between sunnyside and bald peak (vis from highway)

[Peabody]

What's the story with this cliff? The rock looks fine and there are a few lines on it. How come no one climbs there? Access? Someone put a bunch of work into the place years back, fixing nylon rope up a gully and leaving a nylon rope anchor on a tree. Also a bunch of trees were cut at the base of the crag and white tape was put up around the area. Anyone know the history of this place?

[Fred]

I checked out this cliff a few years back. I think it has definite potential. I guess people have just been busy developing other areas. That said, I'm sure there will be a time where this becomes the next gold rush spot. It's fair game if you want to put some time into it. The new highway will shorten the approach a little.

[PeterA]

Dad and Pete did some development up there I believe.

-PJ

[cory]

Jon Lodge and Derrek Smith established a number of boulder problems beside the cliff, and there's potential for more. The cliff itself (aside from some very easy but nice looking gullies) looks like it would be really tough sport climbing for the most. From what I recall, it's water eroded (kinda polished), slightly overhanging and rather tall. Potential for the most concentrated number of 5.12 and way above in the maritimes!
Also stumbled upon a small abandoned grow-op nearby on one visit.
Federal property (DND), I think, but others on this forum have access to the NBGIS and can confirm.
Go to it Peabody.

[motanb]

Cory Richardson and I top-roped a 'hand-crack' on the far left side of this cliff years ago. We didn't go back. This is not to say there is no potential.
I know we called it "jail-house rock" (the cliff)...

It would be cool if you were to develop it...

[STeveA]

Julien and I explored the cliff back in 1982, however after Julien convinced himself that he almost stepped on an old mine we did not go back. Pete and his girlfriend, Biz, put up several routes and the webbing is his. Pete and I explored the cliff a few times. The area was used by the Cadets for a summer camp for many years so the trail to the cliff is (was) well developed. There used to be a lot of wire on the cliff because it was also used for a communications site. The cliff has a lot of potential, just waiting for someone to put in the work.

[Peabody]

Thanks for the info everyone. Steve, do you know where the original trail went in from? I hiked over from the top of mt douglas (Bald Peak) but was there a trail up from the highway? THere are traces of trail around the cliff but everything seems to be overgrown now. Hope to have some chances to explore it this summer but the army might have other uses for my time.

[cory]

Access:
There is a pull off from the highway approx 1/2 way between the Irving and the Sunnyside Cell tower. It's the old driveway to the ski hill. (There used to be a ski hill there, and if you look carefully you can see the two trails of deciduous trees where they once were.) They've dug up a part of the road, so you can't drive up but it's an easy walk that'll take you about half way there. When the driveway ends at the sandy old parking lot, head more or less straight uphill. If you're lucky you'll find old white webbing tied as flagging tape, but it's pretty dirty and mossy now. It marks an overgrown trail. Basically, just go straight uphill and with a bit of patience you'll find the cliff. The most difficult part of the trail is getting started as there are a number of hidden ponds and flooded pits you've got to pick your way around.

[Shawn B]

It's the old driveway to the ski hill. (There used to be a ski hill there, and if you look carefully you can see the two trails of deciduous trees where they once were.)

I learned to ski here...back in...ahem...1970 until the lodge blew down in the ground hog day gale of 1972. The run closest to the cliff (lookers left on the ski hill) was Wilson's Challenge. Legend had it no one skied it without falling....think leather lace up boots, wooden skis (some with screw on metal edges) and rat trap spring bindings. The ski hill was called Mt. Douglas.

[Adam]

I learned to ski here...back in...ahem...1970

man, you're older than you look Shawn!!