Bolt-up near SJ airport

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Bolt-up near SJ airport

Postby Keith » Sun May 08, 2005 12:32 pm

Does anyone know any details about a route between the SJ airport and Quispamsis. Left side of the higway coming from the airport, probably 200 yards through the woods there's a 50 or 60 foot outcrop with a bolted line up the middle. I've never climbed it (tried once during my first season), but I'd like to find out who put it up and what grade it goes at.

Thanks
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Postby Chris » Sun May 08, 2005 2:39 pm

I am not sure but I think that may be a Cory Goodman special.
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Postby jeremy » Sun May 08, 2005 5:45 pm

I think its something around 5.9. I climbed it 7 or 8 years ago. It was put up by someone from the NBCCSJ club. I think there is more then one line on that cliff.

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Postby Keith » Sun May 08, 2005 7:30 pm

Cool, good to know... I messed up the direction (actually right side of the road) But I figure we're talking about the same place. It was the first route I ever tried leading, but I backed off after the second bolt... curios to see what a couple of seasons will make things feellike. 5.9 sounds nice and reasonable
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Postby Ropeguy » Sun May 08, 2005 9:30 pm

I think the guy that owns the land(Bob) removed the bolts.I have never been in but he and his girlfriend were at the school a couple years ago learing to climb and mentioned he was the land owner.My fiance spoke with a guy who tryed to bolt it last year and he was asked to leave by the owner.......This is all 3rd hand info not sure how accurate it is.........
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Postby Keith » Sun May 08, 2005 10:34 pm

hmm, strange thing for a guy who's learning to climb. I'll probably take a walk in to check it out none the less... seems the route selection in the area is getting scarcer by the minute..
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Postby Andrew » Mon May 09, 2005 7:40 am

If it's the same place I was to on my first couple years climbing, it's on the right side of the highway on your way from the SJ airport towards Quispamsis. You can park on the side of the road right by an old logging road or power pole access road. The cliff face has white paint on it that reads "Neil Lisa". There's a white plastic lawn chair below the base ofthe cliff and it's quite a bush-wak to get in there.

When I was there a couple years ago, it had 1 or two bolted lines and there is a trad route to the right of all that up a little crack system. There are rap anchors at the top, or you can go up over the lip to a large tree.

Is this the same one you're talking about, guys?
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Postby Keith » Mon May 09, 2005 8:49 am

Trad route eh..? Can't chop the bolts off that... Also good to know and makes draggin around the extra weight worth it...
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ain't my routes

Postby cory » Wed May 11, 2005 11:42 am

Don't blame those routes on me! I checked it out many years ago, didn't bohter climbing it and have no desire to go back.

It was first bolted well over 10 years ago, and nobody seems to know who did it. :shock: I take this as a warning sign to stay away.

The bolts are poorly placed (location, not necessarily technically unsound) only one line looked worth the effort but upon closer inspection something was wrong with it (dirty, loose, or hornets maybe...?)

I also remembering somthing about no access, there might me a no tresspassing sign cause they've cleared some of the land below it...

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