New route - Pyramid Wall

[Greg]

October Sky 5.8 PG 80'/N/N

FFA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2008.10.05

Climb the left facing dihedrel (Round Up) just right of Pass the Moonshine to a ledge then step right and continue up a series of cracks and ledges. Finishes above and right of Pass the Moonshine on a big ledge. Build a gear anchor just above the ledge.

I need to go back this weekend to get rid of a few loose blocks on the top ledge, put a rap station in and do a bit more cleaning. Fun climb.

Thanks for the killer brush Fred.

[Fred]

Greg:

Is this the same route as Joe's except continues to top staying right of Pass the Moonshine.

Maybe keeping it a natural anchor would be better given the proximity to the other routes. Nice send. Looks like a nice line. I'm looking forward to getting on it now that you've cleaned it.

[Greg]

Went back a couple of weeks ago, did some more cleaning and peeled a flake off near the top (the crux). This climb is now a bit more difficult but really fun. Anyone with a long reach will have an easier time with it. The full description goes like this….start up the left trending dihedral/crack just to the right of Anubis (this section was named Round Up by Joe) making one or two 5.8 moves to gain a ledge. Step right and continue up an easy right trending blocky section to another ledge just below skinny spruce tree. Stay just left of tree moving up on crimps to a few pockets and then a finger crack which leads to the top. PG protection throughout the route. I think the crux section is 5.9 or 10???? but this needs confirmation. Probably will have to wait till spring. I'll keep the anchor natural until there is some more feedback on the route.

Stacey and I managed to squeeze yet another climb out of Pyramid wall. Judging by the crap that was in the way of this route I am guessing it has never been led before but who knows.

The Last of the Unplucked Gems 5.7 G 90' N T

FA: S. Couturier 2008.10.18
FFA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2008.10.18

Start at the bottom of the rounded buttress just right of About a Rope. Climb up mini jugs and horizontal cracks staying on middle of buttress until reaching right trending diagonal ramp (crossing over Sweet Potato Pie). Continue climbing a series of cracks and ledges to the top finishing at a ledge where there is a large spruce tree between About a Rope and Sweet Potato Pie.

[Joe]

Greg, good work on the route. Fred, you may as well delete "Roundup" as a route, as it is only a part of October Sky. Joe.