New Routes Sunnyside

[Fred]

Four new routes went up this weekend at Sunnyside. Here is the info for one of them. Can the others post the route info here?


Little Bones 5.7 80'/S(8)/R(2)
FFA: G.Hughes, S.Couturier
Climb the bolted line between "Pollux" and "Superstar".

[Adam]

Governor of Givener 5.12b/S5/B2
FA Adam Morgan '07, FFA PJ Adamson 10/08
Up the bulge in the middle of Farside wall.

Finger Fear 5.11b/S4/B2
FA Adam Morgan '07, FFA PJ Adamson 10/08
Starting up the left facing rail on the left side of Farside wall.

it should be noted that PJ FLASHED the FFA of both of these routes. PJ you're a machine. go get on some 5.13s!

PJ/Matt/Tom, do you agree with those grades?

[Adam]

Governor of Giviner

[Fred]

What about Victory Cabage?

[Adam]

oh yah, it was put up last year so i forgot.

Victory Cabbage 5.10b S5/R2
FA Erick Burley,Chris Norfolk '07, FFA Adam Morgan '07
The right-most bolted line on Farside wall

[Adam]

also two others that i haven't posted

Smells like rain, tastes like chicken 5.10- 50'/S6/R2
FFA Adam Morgan '08
Follow bolted line just right of 'Lightning'. Sustained.

Awe 5.10- 50'/S6/B2
FFA Adam Morgan '08
Line right of 'Smells like rain...'.

not 100% sure about # of bolts on those two....

plus there are three open projects on the Darkside wall

Sith (has been t/r'd but was bolted for the throwdown but was too wet to climb) 5.10d 40'/S5/B2
FA Adam Morgan '06
Left most bolted line on Darkside wall. Pull through the roof then easier climbing to the top. Often wet but should be dry if no rain for a few days.

two unnamed, unclimbed projects in the center of the darkside wall, each starts to the side of a blank roof and then traverses in a few moves and then up the face. be sure to stick clip these routes as a fall would be BAAAAD! basically each is a boulder problem that finishes on 5.9ish climbing. have at them if you find them dry!

[Fred]

how many bolts on each of the projects on Darkside? anchors?

[motanb]

I agree with those grades for the "far side" wall. i enjoyed all three of those routes..especially "victory cabbage"; it's one of my favorite face climbs in welsford to date.

[Adam]

how many bolts on each of the projects on Darkside? anchors?

anchors yes, i believe it was 4 and 3 bolts respectively.