Chocolate Eclaire

[Fred]

Over the last few years the ledge at the start of Chocolate Eclaire on Exfoliated had been deteriorating. With permission from Ghislain, I added a bolt to the start of this route and cleaned off the rotten ledge and slab below.

[Andrew]

Thank you, Fred!!!

Now I might have the balls to lead it ;P

Andrew

[Andrew]

Wow, this route is pretty dirty. There is a lot of moss growth. Pretty hard route to start as well. Once you climb up to where the tree stump is and would clip new new 1st bolt, it seems alot harder than 5.8. As I move towards the left where the bigger holds are, I get lost. I've done the route before, so maybe I was just tired and worn out. Any hints would be great.

Andrew

[martha]

It is a pretty crimpy/balancey move there at the beginning. It might be a hard 5.8.. but I don't think any harder. just a different style than most routes in welsford.

[Murph]

Sorry to dig up an old thread but who here thinks the this climb is sandbaged? Definitively the hardest 5.8 I have ever climbed. Maybe in the 5.9+ or 5.10a range? What are your thoughts?

[Stacey]

Sorry to dig up an old thread but who here thinks the this climb is sandbaged? Definitively the hardest 5.8 I have ever climbed. Maybe in the 5.9+ or 5.10a range? What are your thoughts?

Haha - I'd love to hear it was a 5.9+ or higher...I got it clean on TR...which for me was pretty awesome...so I'm guessing it's not sandbagged...just a special crimpy climb...

Stace

[martha]

Hey Murph,

after climbing it yesterday at the end of the day, I still think it is 5.8, though a solid one. my hands and feet were fried but I had no difficulties with the route at all. Compared to other routes in the grade range, it isn't harder than 5.8 for Style or Spiderman. And it isn't as difficult as some of the 5.9's like Warm and Sultry, Talamasca or Tut's Tomb. It is just a very different style of climbing.... crimpy-balancy! ahhh.. my favorite kind! LOL.

[Fred]

I think it's 5.9

[Rosie]

I'm with Fred on this one. It's definitely harder than any other 5.8 sport climb I've ever done. And I like crimpy balancy routes!

[Matt Peck]

How's it compair with Yosimite Sam on the Upper Tier (think that's the one). I've always found the style of that one makes it seem harder than 5.8

[Fred]

I think it's harder than Yosemite Sam.

[Adam]

I think it's harder than Yosemite Sam.

agreed

[Andrew]

I thought it was just a little harder than the 5.8's I'm used to. Compared to something like Fern Gully, it's definately more difficult, though as you mentioned, it's not your average Welsford climb.

I gotta get on this again.

Andrew

Hey Murph,

after climbing it yesterday at the end of the day, I still think it is 5.8, though a solid one. my hands and feet were fried but I had no difficulties with the route at all. Compared to other routes in the grade range, it isn't harder than 5.8 for Style or Spiderman. And it isn't as difficult as some of the 5.9's like Warm and Sultry, Talamasca or Tut's Tomb. It is just a very different style of climbing.... crimpy-balancy! ahhh.. my favorite kind! LOL.

[PeterA]

I'd give it 5.6a/b

-PJ

[martha]

I'd give it 5.6a/b

-PJ

a climber of your lineage... we could expect no less from you!