Ice 2010/2011

[theriault]

We went to Sunnyside today and surprisingly there was one good quality ice line. This is the only ice route at that crag.

La Duchesse - WI 4++ 20m FFA M. Theriault, L. Gallant, D. Caron, J. St-Coeur 27/02/11
Climb found in Sunnyside directly to the right of Black Dwarf (rock climb). Climb a vertical chandeliered curtain (hard to protect) for 15m then eases off over a few bulges to the top. The climb may be downgraded to WI4/4+ in Fat condition.

[Stacey]

Nice lead Marty - looks like a sweet line...

[Greg]

Good job Marty and company.

[Adam]

good stuff! any meaning behind the name?

during the first year of development at sunnyside there was a lot of at the bottom of radioactive rod.... nothing there this year? also, what was teh darkside wall looking like?

[theriault]

On the radioactive rod wall I could see a pillar forming in a good year, but there's just not enough water flow this year, and I think the same apply's to the Darkside (there's a few popsicles on top). Because of the amount of sun that this crag receives daily, I don't think it will ever be an Ice destination. The name... no real story to it, just seemed fitting.

[Dom]

good stuff! any meaning behind the name?

Feminin of douchebag


FTR Ra was the only dry rock route out there. I think it's because we were in the sub-zeros temps. In March it'll be wet with the huge snowpack on top melting away...A lot of snow out there. Luc and I had the brilliant idea of not bringing our snowshoes. Definitely took a lot longer to reach the wall. From now on, snowshoes every crag i go to until July...

[j.root]

Nice line Marty!

On the topic of new ice, Dan Coates and I explored between Quaco Head and Rogers head and found quite a bit of ice. I haven`t seen it anywhere on here and it isn`t in the guidebook...

Close to Browns beach we found some stunning overhanging blue and brown ice mixed together.


Has anyone been here? looks like some really beautiful hard climbs.

We continued down the coast and when we came around the corner we saw this.


Three gully ish routes by a pretty unique hole in the wall.

We hiked in to the line on the far left and rappelled down. Two 60m half ropes got to the bottom with maybe 5 m to spare.


It turned out to be harder than we though with the first 3m or so climbing on chossy, seaweed covered rock and then a big move to get on the pillar.
Beautiful climb, a bit out of our ability to lead. It is steeper than it appears, the first 15 meters are vertical or overhanging with one good rest. I don't trust my experience enough to give it a grade.

Curious if these lines are all virgin? The approach is very short, about a half hour from where you can park a car. If anyone is interested next weekend I would love to go back. I think this is right around the corner from Nautical Disaster in the guidebook...

[j.root]

note: we did end up toproping it, but I dont think that counts as a FA

[Joe]

Shawn, Denise and I explored Browns Beach a few years ago but didn't find anything climbable. We didn't continue further towards Rogers Head. Those lines look impressive! How is the hiking along the top of the cliffs?

[j.root]

hey joe, there is an atv trail that follows the coast for most of the way and the deer in that area have already broke the path quite well.

[theriault]

Has anyone climb/check out Cave Fever lately?

[*Chris*]

Hey Marty,
PES and I checked out cave fever during ice school a week before last. It actually looked in good shape. The slab was thinner but that's par for the course. I'd say go for it. I think conditions have likely improved in the last 2 weeks.

[theriault]

Ice was still IN this weekend! And I have to mention that Glebe Rd. is a pretty amazing place, Thanks to Greg and Stacy for most of the work out there!!!

Glebe Rd.

Le Pilier du Pape WI 5 35m FFA M.Thériault, G. Hughes, S. Hughes, S. Arcand 19/03/11
Climb the first big obvious pillar in the gully. An easy ramp brings you to a 20m dead vertical pillar. A 3 stars route!

Parlee Brook

Montagne Russes Printanière WI 2-3 75m(ish) FFA M. Thériault (solo) 20/03/11
Climb found 50m right (climber`s right) of Hullholmes falls. Climb the first 10m of Hullholmes and walk about 50m in the wood to the next drainage system. Link up a bunch of Head walls (up to 10m) all the way to the top of the hill.

Owl's Head

Pierre Cale (Chock stone) M2 WI 3+ 35m FFA M. Thériault, L. Gallant, D. Caron, F. Zambito 29/01/11
Climb found on Owl's Head about 1hrs walk from Alma on the beach. A very deep and narrow gully splits the cliff and has a very large chock stone about 8m up. Climb ice and rock for 10m to hit a long ramp, a final thick head wall is found on the left wall.

[theriault]

Glebe Rd.

Total Fusion WI 3, 20 m. G. Hughes, S. Hughes, 19/03/2011 This is the obvious formation 5 meters to the right of Central Pillar. Follow slab up to a series of vertical steps and ice chimney.

[Dom]

Good job Marty and co.!!

[anderfo]

Updated topo,
http://folk.ntnu.no/anderfo/files/temp/ ... o-2011.pdf

[Greg]

Nice work Marty!

Hey Anders - thanks for the updated topo.

This year was a strange year for ice and Glebe Road was no exception. None of the climbs on the right side of the ravine came in at all but three new lines formed on the left including the big guy that Marty tagged on Saturday.

[anderfo]

Cool. Looks completely different!