UNB Rock and Ice - Safety Course Series 2005/2006 Scheduled

[john]

Here is the info many of you have asked for. I am repeating it here, not under the sticky since a new post tends to draw more attention than an old sticky many people are used to skipping over. Fred in a day or two feel free to add this to the sticky. Thanks.

Anyone who knows of climbers not regular to this forum but may be interested please foward this onto them. If you email me I can provide this in a better formatted word document.

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I had been waiting for a while to post the details for the UNB Rock and Ice - Safety Course Series 2005/2006. The reason for this was to allow booking for the wilderness first aid course, and to find an open weekend at the UNB climbing wall. Those details are now finalized, info regarding this is below.

Wilderness first aid: Nov 25 – 27

Info: http://www.climbeasterncanada.com/viewtopic.php?t=1018.
Contact person: Pez (j9cew@unb.ca)

Section #1

Details of each section and requirements are below. Noting, topics are not limited to those outlined below; course content will be tailored to those in attendance. Also noting, you must attend each sections in order, from one to four, to ensure all students build on correct knowledge from the ground up. This series is intended for all skill levels from the absolute beginner who has never climbed to the experienced who want to refresh or a chance to learn and practice techniques among peers.

In section #1 all the topics list below will be covered in detail, with as much time taken as needed for each person to fully grasp those topics. If the group consists of all adavanced climbers (likely not the case) and everyone quickly moves through section #1, section #1 will be covered in part on the first day. However, section #2 will again be covered during the next scheduled class.

Frequently asked questions….. answered.

Date: Saturday, December 3
Time: 10am – as long as necessary
The course is open to anyone of any skill
Cost: Free*

1) Pre-registration IS required, first come first served. The course is limited to 20 participants to ensure timely and hands on teaching. IF, I receive enough pre-registrations to warrant a larger group the course will be offered again Sunday, December 4th at the same time.

Pre-register via email: climb@unb.ca, include full name and phone number.

*Please note, many people suggested to me that I should charge for this course, not for the profit, but to avoid people pre-registering then not showing up, which takes the chance away from someone who would have come. I have elected to go against this recommendation. I do not want to limit this course to anyone who is interested for financial reasons. Therefore, there is no charge but, I am asking you to only pre-register if you are very sure you will attend, in fairness to all involved

2) You do not have to attend the Wilderness first aid course to attend the climbing safety series, it is complimentary not mandatory. You do have to attend all safety course sections in order 1-4.

3) Section #2 will follow section #1 closely. It is tentatively planned for the following weekend, Saturday, December 10. This will be finalized based on the demographic of those who come to section one. The concern is that, this is exam time for many schools, so if the course demographic is all students, one of two things will happen: I will keep with the Dec 10th date and offer an alternate time to the students, or we will reschedule.



John Bowles
President UNB Rock and Ice Club


UNB Rock and Ice - Safety Course Series 2005/2006 Detailed Description

This course is separated into a multi-part series. Each section is intended to expand skills developed in previous sections; as such it is required to attend the sections in sequential order. Below is a brief outline of various section contents. Topics are not limited to those outlined below; course content will be tailored to those in attendance.

Section #1

This section is intended for beginner climbers interested in learning introductory terms and techniques for indoor and outdoor climbing. This section is will teach skills to allow the student to understand how to safely identify and use basic climbing equipment and top rope safely. This section does not however, explore how to build anchors for outdoor climbing and assumes the student will be lowered by their belayer after climbing (i.e. rappelling is not taught).

Review climbing specific terminology
Identification of various gear i.e. slings, cams, biners ect.
Learn names of various holds
Learn the names of various techniques i.e. gaston, knee bar, drop knee, flag ect.
Learn various types of rock climbing – trad, sport, aid, bouldering, top rope
Learn how to spot – Put pads under and guide climber onto them


Learn to put on a harness DOUBLE BACK
Learn how to tie into the rope
Learn how to belay – COMMANDS, CHECKING your partner, brake hand, 5pt belay, close to the wall, off to the side slightly, pay attention

Section #2

This section assumes the student has attended and fully understands the skills covered in section #1. This section covers the differentiation between top roping and lead climbing, covers knots and anchor systems appropriate for both. This section also covers rappelling and methods of backup-up systems.

Knots and USES
Clove – tying off/anchoring
Munter – rappel/belay backup
Figure 8 on a Bight – anchor/tie into middle of the rope
Figure 8 – tie to harness
Prusik – ascend a line or backup rappel among other uses

Anchors and USES - Top rope with twist – wandering routes, shock loading, 2 slings
Figure 8 – lead, multipitch, one sling or cordlette
Tree – Girth Hitch – doesn’t slide, longer, 2 slings
Doubled up – Strong, short, 2 slings
Figure 8 – one sling
Redundant and Equalized
Locked and Gates Opposed
Double Check Everything

Rappelling
Transferring from anchor
Brake hand
Lock biners
Thread ATC correctly
Knot and Equalized Strands/Bend knees

Section #3

This section assumes the student has attended and fully understood the skills covered in section #1 and section #2. This section reviews section #2 - anchoring skills briefly, and then expands on anchoring methods for traditional routes. This section covers the basics for aid climbing including backups and techniques for basic French Free and more complex aid climbing. Various methods of ascending a fixed line will be demonstrated, both with and without a fixed anchor, and with and with out mechanical devices. This section is intended to teach skills necessary for the next section of the course - self rescue. Section #3 is not intended to be an all inclusive “how to aid climb” course; however the basic aid skills covered are needed for self rescue. The crux of this section is the numerous ways each technique may be accomplished depending on the gear available to you. Effort will be made to demonstrate techniques that use basic gear, as this course is designed to prepare the student for complications associated with single and multipitch free climbing.

Learn how to build and equalize (various methods) natural protection for leading and in situ rescue scenarios.
Learn french free techniques (with limited and more complex gear)
Learn how to use basic aid gear (ascenders, tibloc, aiders various daisy chains, traction, ropeman etc.)
Learn how to ascend fixed and unfixed lines, with various equipment

Emphasis will be placed on using all types of gear to do basic aid climbing tasks. This section will be very detailed with discussion on when and why to use various techniques when multiple techniques are an option.

Section #4

This section assumes the student has attended and fully understood the skills covered in section #1, section #2 and section #3. This section will cover self rescue with a focus on common scenarios encountered when free climbing single and multipitch routes. A strong command of content taught in previous sections will be required. Topics will include necessary skills to rescue an unconscious climber on multi pitch routes with one or more people. This section will NOT cover any medical treatment of the victim, only climbing systems required to evacuate them. Details of this section are still under development.


John Bowles
President UNB Rock and Ice Club
climb@unb.ca

[Fred]

John

I hope you are taking money from the cashbox for yourself because this is just too much work for a volunteer position.

I'm serious.