Waterwalk and Rythm Sticks

[Fred]

There seems to be much confusion about these two routes so I thought I'd start a thread to get to the bottom of it.

Here is what we know.

1. "Waterwalk" DOES start at the vertical crack system right of "Trundling by Moonlight"

2. Everyone thinks "Rythm Sticks" starts just below the totem up a crack system and then left in behind the totem.

Here is where the confusion starts.

I was talking to someone in Welsford on Saturday who has been climbing for a long time. We had just finished climbing "Astroboy". At the top of "Astroboy" I trended left to a massive tree which I think is the tree for the end of "Waterwalk". We agreed on the start of the route but he seemed to think "Waterwalk" just went up the blocky weakness where "The Boulevard" was. So the question is. Does "Waterwalk" finish up the vertical wall on the left most end of Joe's up a crack system parallel to "Astroboy"?

Here is the other question. At the same big tree which I think is the finish to "Waterwalk" and the same tree I used to finish "Astroboy" there seems to be a route that could continue straight up a sort of open book crack system. Also, there is a huge foot ledge to the left that you could use to traverse over to the tree to start this route. Also, most people think that "Rythm Sticks" starts up the crack system directly below the totem and at the edge of the safe scrambling zone (as I call it) for "The Alley" (upper Joe's). But I've heard that the original "Rhythm Sticks" goes up and right around the totem. I think this might be the route I'm talking about straight up from the tree for "Astroboy" and "Waterwalk". This would explain why the (what we think is Rythm Sticks) is much harder than 5.7 because this other line looks more like 5.7. So my question is. Where does the original "Rythm Sticks" go? and has anyone climbed this route directly above the "Astroboy/Waterwalk" belay tree? From the bottom of the safe scrambling zone for "The Alley" one would traverse a big ledge 8ft over to a large tree then continue up an open book crack system.

[martha]

The route you are describing for 'Rythm Stick' seems to match what Mike Fellows described to us for it.

If that is the case, here is another question to add to freds.... what IS the route that we do now called 'Rythm Stick'?

[Shawn B]

Here is my understanding. Waterwalk and Trundling share the same start. The first 10 or so feet onto the big vegitated ledge. Trundling goes up the crack closest to the blunt arete. When the crack ends, a mantle from a slopey ledge will allow you to reach the big flake to the left of the arete and up the gorgeous corner to hand crack (sparky start joins at the big flake). Waterwalk goes from the vegitated ledge up the finger crack in the middle of the face between trundling and boulevard (which is the dirty corner). It continues up the slabby (and now dirty) face and up through the steep and awkward blocky section below the now dead trees (one not quite dead and one real dead which used to be the belay tree on the ledge above the blocky section. This ledge is now also very dirty and has lots of dead fall trees and branches on it. There is also a new 4 or 5 inch round pine tree. The traverse out to astroboy starts right behind this pine. Waterwalk and boulevard join at this point and continue up the blocky dirty section above the ledge to the big tree which is growing out at an angle (not the astroboy belay tree). There are two other climbs which go up the face on the right (far left face of joe's if you want to call it that). I can't remember the name but it is in the yellow guide book. The 9+ nice "looking" vertical finger crack (which it is neither) is directly below the large astroboy belay tree. A variation goes up the offwidth at the top right of the finger crack. Astroboy is the next climb to the right. I'm not certain but I think either Paul B or one of the Dixon's did the vertical finger crack and maybe Mitch the ow variation. Not actually sure if either has been led as gear would be challenging, questionable and well spaced. Rock quality also poor. From the big astroboy belay tree, the corner directly above (or just a few feet right) may be an old climb "journey without maps" by Steve A or Julien? Joey and I did it one time and climbing was around 5.6. Very nice rock but very dirty and some loose blocks and now some dead fall. Rythym Stick starts about 10 feet left of this big tree (by the other big leaning tree). Climb up flakes and cracks (nice) to a slippery mantle into an alcove. Easy climbing up the left side of the big block past a spruce tree. Chimney or face climb up behind the block to a tree belay in trees about 15 or so feet above the top of the big block. It is 5.7 but a bit awkward getting into the alcove. There was a small loose block somewhere on the climb below the crux last time I climbed it (quite a while ago). There is also a small thin finger crack which starts just left of the big astroboy belay tree. It goes up and joins into the right arete of the big "totem" block as you call it. It is not a climb that I know of. Joey and I TR'd it one time and climbing is superb and exposure and position fabulous, but very dirty (a long standing project of mine to clean and bolt that thing). Lots of rambling that probably doesn't make sense but since you were just there Fred you might understand what I mean.

[Fred]

I understand everything you said except I find some disrepencies.

1. I'll have to look up the other two routes that you speak of that are parallel to AStroboy. I know which two you mean. I thought the one directly below the Astroboy tree was the finish of Waterwalk but now I know where Waterwalk finishes (where Astroboy starts) so I'll look it up.

2. Some say Rhythm Sticks actualy goes out right around the totem. I think that would be the crack just left of the Astroboy belay tree that you speak of. It's kind of a small open book/crack near the bottom. You can't realy see where it goes above but I suspect it would go up to the arete of the Totem above. Is there a way that line could trend up and right in behind the totem? Is it possbile it's the original Rythm Sticks.

3. Journey Without Maps is in the Amphitheatre It's a variation to Jean. But i think I see where you are talking about the 5.6 blocky climb up and right from the Astroboy tree.

cheers

p.s. I'm still thinking of writing the next guidebook hence why I'm educating myself on all this.

[PaulB]

I'm not certain but I think either Paul B or one of the Dixon's did the vertical finger crack and maybe Mitch the ow variation.

I know I've climbed Waterwalk (or a variation of it since we didn't really know where the route went) and Rhythm Stick, but I don't recall doing anything else in that area. I distinctly remember Rhythm Stick because at the time it was one of the few climbs I'd done which actually required hand jams. I can't say that I remember exactly where it starts, other than somewhere above Waterwalk. I do seem to recall that Mitch (& maybe Sam) worked a line up there somewhere.

[PaulB]

Some say Rhythm Sticks actualy goes out right around the totem. I think that would be the crack just left of the Astroboy belay tree that you speak of. It's kind of a small open book/crack near the bottom. You can't realy see where it goes above but I suspect it would go up to the arete of the Totem above. Is there a way that line could trend up and right in behind the totem? Is it possbile it's the original Rythm Sticks.

Dug out my guidebook. In the description for Rhythm Stick, it says "...continue up the huge detached block to the top." Is this block what you are calling the totem?

[Fred]

Dug out my guidebook. In the description for Rhythm Stick, it says "...continue up the huge detached block to the top." Is this block what you are calling the totem?

yes but the question is does it go up and left around the block or up and right around the block

[mathieu]

Fred, the answer to your question about Rythm sticks is only going to be resulved if you ask the FA.

[Fred]

does anyone have contacts for J.Holmes, G.Hull and A.Gilchrist?

They did the first ascent of Rhythm Sticks. Based on the description in Paul B's book, the route seems to be the one that everyone thinks is Rythm STicks. So how did someone come about and suggest perhaps the route goes out and right?

Some Enchanted Evening 5.3
From the top of The Boulevard. Traverse along the ledge for 15ft then climb a crack in the middle of the ledge. Continue to the top stayind lef of the trees.

where is this route???? Is this in between Rythm Stick and Ragged Edge??? Does the Boulevard finish shy of the top? Sounds like the Boulevard might finish at the small 1" pine tree where you start Astroboy.

Also, here is the answer to the two routes below the Astroboy finish.

Sweepstake 5.9+
From the first belay of Waterwalk (start to Astroboy) climb the crack on the right hand wall. The crack can be seen in a clean streak from the ground.

Jackpot 5.8 R
At the top of Waterwalk first pitch, start up the dihedral to a pine tree. Traverse right along a horizontal crack to gain the offwidth to the right of sweepstakes.

[GregH]

Okay guys I'll try to help out. This was a LONG time ago but here's what I remember.

If my memory serves me correctly I think we climbed both lines. The line to the right had a fixed hex on it up to the right of what your calling The Totem (don't know whether it's still there or not). So by that we assumed that someone had climbed it before us so we didn't bother sticking a name on it - probably a Colin Bell route or something. Is the line to the right the easier of the two?? I seem to remember it being 5.6-7 but maybe i'm mixed up. i'm fairly sure we climbed the line in red the same day and named it rythm stick. the same day i believe we top roped sweepstakes but it wasn't lead until later by mark dixon i think. i seem to remember the crack on sweepstakes being sort of rounded and just overall questionable pro. seems to me we climbed ragged edge the same day as well.

I spoke to Mike Fellows last night as well and he thought the climb where we found the fixed piece was rythm stick but that's incorrect (I did the route with him after our first ascent). I distinctly remember the route with the fixed piece being to the right of rythm stick so Mike agrees as well that the line to the left is rythm stick.

Hope this helps......

GDH

click here for image


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[Shawn B]

What Greg says is what I've always been led to believe Rythym Stick was as well. Up the left side of the block past a sappy spruce tree. Start I've always done was about 15ish feet left of the big astroboy belay tree, traversing right 5 or so feet and up with a slippery move into a small alcove being the crux. And I've always seem to remember as well the shallow left facing open book which goes up to the right of the totem being an old route as well (starting just to the right of the big astroboy belay tree). Thus when Joe and I did it we thought it had been done as well...but I don't remember seeing a fixed hex. Probably like Greg says an old route done as a finish to Boulevard and Some Enchanted Evening. And you may be right Fred that Boulevard may end on that same ledge where Waterwalk ends (just above the steep blocky section with 2 trees). Then Some Enchanted Evening goes the rest of the way up to the gully where RS and Ragged Edge is. Description and grade you mention sound right to me. And yes the other two are Sweepstake and Jackpot. Both terrible routes. Sweepstake looks very nice but I only remember maybe one nice move and has questionable rock and well spaced and crappy pro (I think I remember maybe 2 good pro placements). And Jackpot...who would purposely traverse into an off-width?

[Fred]

As did I think Rythm Stick was the one we all thought it was. Well it was worth researching the real information since Mike Fellows relayed that description to me after climbing it soon after the first ascent WITH the first ascentionist. Refer to Greg's post. Now we all know.

I agree. Sounds like Boulevard might finish at the small 1" pine tree. Start to Astroboy.

cheers

p.s. I've downloaded Adobe Illustrator and InDesign and I've started playing with some topo drawing software. Some pretty neat stuff going on. I"m hoping to get motivated this winter to write up a new book. I'd love to interview a bunch of people and get a history going. I'm starting to know more and more after climbing for 8 years. Had only been climbing 2 or 3 years when I did the last edition.

[Fred]

the only two other spots that I need help with are "The Amphitheatre" and left part of Minkey. Although I know most of it there are some holes here and there that need answered. I"ve got everything else pretty dialed. I have tons of corrections that I've accumulated over the years.