Cedar Point /Glue-ins

[Shawn B]

Just a heads up to double check the fixed gear. One of the rap line bolts was spinning and very loose. I tightened it but I assume it will work loose again. Cedar would be a prime candidate for glue in fixed gear.

[*Chris*]

Agreed

[austinconrad]

What kind of glue-ins are needed? I'm willing to supply the fixed gear.

[Shawn B]

If anyone has knowledge of installing glue-ins this would be a good thing...esp for the top anchors. The article about bolts in the gear section makes you think about the exposure to salt air here...and then I find a spinner.

[*Chris*]

Shawn... you don't mean that the studs are spinning in the rock do you?

I began to develop a route at the 2nd quarry a few years ago that I abandoned after the rock quality left me less than impressed. After tapping in the bolt its expansion sleeve didn't want to bite... it just spun along with the nut. I ended up getting it to engage eventually. On the next hole down I drilled the rock basically pulverized to powder with minimal effort. The hole ended up being flared badly at the entry point and it wouldn't have taken a standard hangar appropriately. After the experience I ended up abandoning the route and the anchor has since been removed.

I wouldn't rush to replace the hardware if it was a spinning hangar... since some loctite on the nut would obviously fix the problem. However, if it's a spinning stud you've seen it might mean that the rock at the back end of the hole has worn away from the sleeve. That would obviously be bad, but I've never seen that happen before.

[austinconrad]

Which rap in route was it on?

[Dom]

I have some experience installing glue-ins. I helped a friend bolt a route with glue-ins around Sherbrooke a few years back.
In a few years I will rebolt all my routes at CP with glue ins. When I do, I will try to obtain funding from an organization or individuals to rebolt anchors and other routes.

The initial investment for the glue gun and other materials and the cost of the epoxy makes installing glue-ins substantially more expensive than regular expanding bolts we have always been using in NB.
But I 100% agree that glue-in bolts would be optimal at CP.

[chossmonkey]

Did this project ever happen? If it hasn't you should contact MEC about special pricing. In the late winter they usually order stock and you might be able to get a discount.

As to cost. I have placed hundreds of glue-ins and if you are careful about glue waste they aren't that much more expensive than an undersized wedge bolt/hanger and the same price or cheaper than similarly sized bolts. Depending on the rock and how the hole is drilled I can get 25-30 bolts with a single Hilti glue pack.

If you have questions about glue-ins let me know. We will actually be out that way the first week of Aug. and if there are bolts that need fixing I could bring my stuff and teach a few of you how to place them.