The NotchThe Notch is a very unique climbing area! At its lower entrance the tight gorge is just a little more than shoulder wide with full ice pitches on both sides! Plenty of ice of all grades, mostly single pitches with at least one multipitch option. The routes might seem short on paper but they are steep right from the ground! The stream has carved most walls in the gorge creating mostly curtains and pillars!
LocationThis place is located in Sussex NB. To Access it, take route 111 then turn on to Lisson Settlement rd till you pass the Markhamville rd intersection. After the first field (Right side of the rd), find a faint ski trail that follows the first drainage (Flowing South) and follow it till you hit the deep gorge filled with ice.
CautionLocals have told us that some of the pools under the ice are 6-8’ deep with a good current flowing. Also, some years this place creates ice dams, big ones! We were told that one year it was so big that when it let go, a wave came through the valley and even took down a barn!
RoutesThe routes here are hard to describe since most of the gorge is coated on both side with ice…. So many routes and variations are possible (20-30+). Everything formed in the winter of 2014 where climb by M. Theriault and L. Gallant, they are credited with the FA’s in the Notch. The gorge has been divided into 5 walls/areas.
1-
Le Corridor – WI3-4 10-20m
This is the entrance of the gorge, tight vertical wall with a big chock stone in the middle, impressive spot!
2-
Farty – WI3 30-45m
Composed of a single Classic line, with a multipitch option.
3-
Verticalité – WI4-5 12-15m
The hardest wall in the gorge, multiple pumpy lines to be had
4-
Poop Cave Wall – WI3-3+ 12-15m
Vertical wall split by a small ledge half way.
5-
Dernière Étage – WI3-4 10m
The final upper part of the gorge, lots short steep routes!