Cochrane Lane Cleaning

[anderfo]

Anyway, with a (french) prussik knot he would have solved it quite easily, even though his hands were frozen.

...of course I talk about Simon, not Joe, when I say a prussik knot would help in passing the knot through a belay device.
Cheers and good night

[Shawn B]

Since this seems to be a multi topic thread with a "safety" theme, I'm curious to those who insist on knots in the end of yer ropes, what type of anchor do you use for sport climbing? A draw to each bolt? Or locker to each bolt, equalized and redundant webbing/cordelette and two o&o lockers on the rope end? Knowing the answer, why so adamant about the knots?

I use and teach the latter.

Too bad you weren't teaching more people Chris.

[Shawn B]

Must get back there soon. Fred

Didn't think you liked Red Rocks Fred?

[Fred]

Didn't think you liked Red Rocks Fred?

I don't. But I need to get back to Vegas to visit the Bunny Ranch and go fire an AK47.

[Stacey]

Yup- you are right - it was from joining the two ropes...his partner couldn't take the weight off the rope as he was mid-air...thus the cutting....no rap knots involved.

[Adam]

Since this seems to be a multi topic thread with a "safety" theme, I'm curious to those who insist on knots in the end of yer ropes, what type of anchor do you use for sport climbing? A draw to each bolt? Or locker to each bolt, equalized and redundant webbing/cordelette and two o&o lockers on the rope end? Knowing the answer, why so adamant about the knots?

i readily admit i use two quickdraws o&o to build an anchor when sport climbing. i have NEVER heard of a rope coming out of such a set up so i don't think that can be associated with not tying knots in yer rope.

next!

wow this thread has become epic!

[Greg]

Something that I've observed about teaching, particularly when it comes to climbing, is that a beginner can really only absorb 3-4 key points at a time. I watched this year as someone attempted to give a 30-minute crash course on everything climbing. Subjects included knots, rapping, anchors, cams, nuts, bolt placement, belaying, and a number of very interesting situations which cause one to act in some way contrary to a 'rule-of-thumb'. Afterwards, I asked a few of the people crowded around what they retained from the little session. The answer was 'nothing'.

Shawn and Steve make a good case for a long period of learning whereby an inexperienced person can be taught to identify proper action through situational expereince. The apprenticeship model. That's indeed the best case but guess what... I see very little of that going on around here.

Many people today are getting their climbing education from a 2 day course, a book, or reading something online. If that's all they're getting and I've got limited ability to explain the dozens of complexities out there... I'll stick with the rule of thumb that works 99 times out of 100... especially when the 1 time it doesn't work isn't likely to get you killed. I've still not read a good reason to stop preaching knots.

Since this seems to be a multi topic thread with a "safety" theme, I'm curious to those who insist on knots in the end of yer ropes, what type of anchor do you use for sport climbing? A draw to each bolt? Or locker to each bolt, equalized and redundant webbing/cordelette and two o&o lockers on the rope end? Knowing the answer, why so adamant about the knots?

I use and teach the latter.

I hope you are also teaching them how to ascend the rope after they have rapped to the knots.

[martha]

I hope you are also teaching them how to ascend the rope after they have rapped to the knots.

I'd rather hang out at the bottom of the rope waiting for someone to come along than end up at the bottom as Rock Jello.

[Stacey]

I hope you are also teaching them how to ascend the rope after they have rapped to the knots.

I'd rather hang out at the bottom of the rope waiting for someone to come along than end up at the bottom as Rock Jello.

me too Cara...better safe and sorry....

[Dom]

Did Telefunken get cleaned and rebolted on the weekend?

Telefunken is clean and rebolted. This route was dirty!!!! I also added webbing and rap rings(courtesy of Dave Peabody) on the birch tree anchor. Also, unlike the topo says, a 60M rope is plenty for the rap down.

This is arguably the best mix route in Cochrane Lane.

So what are you waiting for? GET ON IT!!

[Leehammer]

we decided to leave the rope.

Got the rope back yesterday. And my favorite green hoodie! A big thanks to whoever hung it on the fence.

[Stacey]

Did Telefunken get cleaned and rebolted on the weekend?

Telefunken is clean and rebolted. This route was dirty!!!! I also added webbing and rap rings(courtesy of Dave Peabody) on the birch tree anchor. Also, unlike the topo says, a 60M rope is plenty for the rap down.

This is arguably the best mix route in Cochrane Lane.

So what are you waiting for? GET ON IT!!

Great work ... I hate to ask what time you finished up!

Will definitely get on it ... The next nice day ... This rain today on a plus 14 November day is unimpressive!!!!!

[Stacey]

we decided to leave the rope.

Got the rope back yesterday. And my favorite green hoodie! A big thanks to whoever hung it on the fence.

Glad you found it ... Great work on lichen cream cheese , it's a stellar route!

[Leehammer]

It was all Dave Drolet!

Also climbed the Dikes on Bikes variation yesterday, that climb has a really neat crux!

[Andrew]

Did anyone ever find these brushes available in Saint John area?

[GKelly]

Napa has then in Hampton so I'm sure you can get them in SJ. They are available with different bristles. Go for the heaviest of the bunch.

[Andrew]

Awesome. I'll go get some asap. My 1 brush of that type is nearly worn out after doing 4 new routes.

Napa has then in Hampton so I'm sure you can get them in SJ. They are available with different bristles. Go for the heaviest of the bunch.